Golden Gai: A Complete Guide to Shinjuku's Hidden Bar Paradise for Foreign Visitors
Shinjuku Golden Gai. Born in the chaotic post-war period, this place with over 70 years of history is very familiar to Tokyo locals like me.
This area, once a black market, has evolved over time into a gathering place for cultural figures, and now attracts the attention of travelers from all over the world as a unique neighborhood.
With over 200 small bars lining narrow alleys, buildings that retain the atmosphere of old Tokyo, and a unique space that comes alive at night. This isn't just a bar district, but an interesting place where Tokyo's history and culture are condensed.
Honestly, it might be a bit challenging for those of you coming from abroad. Besides the language barrier, there are elements that might be confusing for first-timers, such as the narrow interiors and unique rules.
Still, Golden Gai is sure to make your Tokyo trip more memorable. The nighttime atmosphere of Tokyo that you can only experience here and encounters with locals are waiting for you. It's said that even writers like Haruki Murakami and film directors like Akira Kurosawa were regulars in this neighborhood.
In this article, I, as a Tokyo resident, will explain the appeal of Golden Gai as clearly as possible. From its interesting history to recommended bars, how to enjoy it, and manners you should know. This article is packed with tips to fully enjoy this neighborhood.
If you want to know about the nightlife in the entire Shinjuku area, please check out the Shinjuku Nightlife Guide, and if you want to get tourism information for the entire Shinjuku area including daytime, please see the Shinjuku Guide.
Table of Contents
・What is Golden Gai?
・How to Enjoy Golden Gai
・Manners and Precautions in Golden Gai
・5 Recommended Bars in Golden Gai
・Night Tours to Enjoy Golden Gai
・Spots to Visit Along with Golden Gai in Shinjuku
・Frequently Asked Questions About Golden Gai
What is Golden Gai?
Golden Gai is a unique bar district located in the heart of Tokyo, Shinjuku. The history of this neighborhood dates back to the 1950s, born in the chaotic post-war era. At the time, it flourished as a black market, but over time, it transformed into a gathering place for cultural figures and artists.
Currently, Golden Gai is home to about 280 small bars packed together. Many of these are ultra-small establishments with just a few seats, creating an atmosphere like a secret hideout.
I first visited Golden Gai when I was a university student. I was struck by a feeling as if I had time-traveled to the post-war era, surprised that such a place existed in Tokyo.
The charm of Golden Gai isn't just about enjoying drinks. It's also been a cultural hub loved by celebrities and cultural figures for many years. It's said that even writer Haruki Murakami and film director Akira Kurosawa were once regulars in this neighborhood.
In recent years, it has become a popular spot for foreign tourists, but the charm of Golden Gai lies in its "non-touristy" atmosphere. It's a precious place where you can experience the raw Tokyo that hasn't been overly touristified.
The Structure of Golden Gai
Golden Gai has six narrow alleys intricately intertwined, and first-time visitors often get lost. Even I used to get confused about which alley connected to where in the beginning.
The characteristic of this neighborhood is that most of the establishments are ultra-small. It's not uncommon to find bars with just 4 or 5 counter seats. The bar I frequent gets packed if just 6 customers enter.
The exterior and signs of each establishment are also unique. Retro signboards, creative neon signs, unique decorations - each store expresses its own world view.
This complex structure and the landscape created by unique stores are truly unique to Golden Gai. Walking through the narrow passages and anticipating what kind of store you'll encounter next is one of the pleasures of this neighborhood.
How to Enjoy Golden Gai
Everyone has their own way of enjoying Golden Gai, but let me share my recommended way to enjoy it. It might feel a bit intimidating at first, especially for those from abroad, but please refer to the following points to enjoy the unique experience of Golden Gai.
First, I recommend starting with easily accessible bars that cater to foreigners and have English menus. Recently, with the increase in foreign tourists, there are more stores that can handle English.
The real thrill of Golden Gai is bar hopping. This refers to visiting multiple bars and drinking a bit at each. I myself sometimes visit 4 or 5 bars in one night. The charm is in enjoying the unique atmosphere of each store and meeting various people.
Enjoying conversations with the unique bar owners and regular customers is also a uniquely Golden Gai experience. I've had unexpected life consultations and heard interesting life experiences here. Even if there's a language barrier, try to enjoy communication using gestures and translation apps.
Observing the interior and decorations of the stores is also interesting. One store might have a wall full of books, while another might be covered with posters from old times.
Manners and Precautions in Golden Gai
There are several manners and precautions to keep in mind when enjoying Golden Gai. I made a few mistakes myself when I first visited, but based on those experiences, I'll give you some advice.
Respect the Rules of Each Establishment
Each establishment has its own rules. Particularly important are those related to photography. Always ask for permission before taking photos, whether inside or outside the store. I once tried to take a photo inside a store out of excitement and was warned. To protect the privacy of the owners and other customers, be especially careful about this point.
Also, it's wise to avoid stores with signs saying "Regulars Only". These stores operate based on long-standing relationships with regular customers, so new customers, especially tourists, might not be welcome. I once entered such a store in my early days and felt uncomfortable.
Be Considerate of Other Customers
The passages in Golden Gai are extremely narrow. You need to always be careful not to get in the way of other customers. Be especially careful if you have large luggage. I have a friend who bumped into other customers while walking with a large backpack.
Leave large luggage at coin lockers or your hotel before visiting Golden Gai.
Also, be careful not to pass out drunk on the street. This is very dangerous and a nuisance to other customers. I'm not very good with alcohol, so I'm especially careful not to drink too much.
Check the Pricing and Payment Methods
Each establishment has different pricing systems. It's good to confirm table charges or minimum orders when you enter.
Also, stores that accept credit cards are limited. It's safer to prepare cash. I always carry more cash than I expect to use.
Budget Estimate
Let me give you an estimate of the budget for Golden Gai. From my experience, it's good to budget about 2,000 to 5,000 yen per establishment. Table charges vary by store, but generally range from 0 to 1,000 yen. One drink typically costs 500 to 1,500 yen, and one appetizer is also about 500 to 1,500 yen.
When I enjoy Golden Gai with friends, we often spend around 10,000 yen for bar hopping to three places. With this budget, you should be able to enjoy yourself sufficiently.
While keeping these manners and precautions in mind, fully enjoy the unique atmosphere of Golden Gai. You might feel a bit nervous at first, but as you get used to it, you'll find this unique space becoming more and more enjoyable.
5 Recommended Bars in Golden Gai
There are many bars in Golden Gai, but let me introduce 5 particularly recommended ones. These are all places I've visited many times and fully experienced their charm.
The Open Book
Source: Tabelog by johnbull2009
The Open Book is a standing bar where literature lovers gather. When I first visited this store, I was overwhelmed by its atmosphere. Bookshelves lining the entire wall, and numerous books that can be freely browsed. It's like a small library with a bar counter installed.
The characteristic of this store is that it's run by the grandchild of a famous writer. Therefore, it has a strong cultural atmosphere, with conversations about literature and art flying around.
<Store Information>
Address: 5th Street, Golden Gai, 1-1-6 Kabukicho, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0021
Closed: None
Phone: Unavailable
Hours: 8:00 PM–11:55 PM
Website: https://openbook.tokyo/
Albatross Golden Gai
Source: Google Map by Hatosabure
Albatross Golden Gai is a bar with a relatively larger space among those in Golden Gai. It uses the entire three-story building, allowing you to enjoy different atmospheres on each floor. One of the reasons I like this store is this diversity.
The most eye-catching feature in the store is the beautiful chandelier. The luxurious chandelier hanging from the ceiling exudes an elegance not found in other stores in Golden Gai. I always feel like I'm spending a special time drinking under this chandelier.
The drink menu is also extensive, especially rich in hot sake and wine. My recommendation is the seasonal sake. The carefully selected sake by the owner is all exquisite. The appetizer menu is also extensive, so you won't get bored even if you stay for a long time.
<Store Information>
Address: 5th Avenue, Golden Gai, 1-1-7 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0021
Closed: None
Phone: 03-3203-3699
Hours: 7:00 PM–5:00 AM
Website: https://www.alba-s.com/
Deathmatch in Hell
Deathmatch in Hell is a very unique themed bar, as you can imagine from its name. With horror movies as its theme, the atmosphere inside is distinctly different from other bars in Golden Gai.
When I first visited this store, I was overwhelmed by its unique atmosphere. The grotesque dolls and decorations hanging on the walls are indeed a bit scary, but they also have a strange charm. The bartender's knowledge of horror movies is extensive, and as a movie lover myself, I always look forward to the conversations here.
It's recommended not only for horror movie fans but also for those seeking a unique experience.
<Store Information>
Address: 3rd Street, Golden Gai, 1-1-8 Kabukicho, Shinjuku 1 Chome, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0021
Closed: Sundays
Phone: 090-2524-5575
Hours: 8:00 PM–3:00 AM
Website: https://www.instagram.com/deathmatchinhell
bar araku
Source: Google Map by BAR ARAKU
bar araku is a popular bar known for its internationally diverse atmosphere. One of the reasons I like this store is its open atmosphere. Many foreign tourists visit, so there are opportunities to interact with people from various countries.
The messages left by travelers on the entire wall are one of the features of this store. The words and drawings left by visitors from all over the world are like a small international exchange venue. I always look forward to finding new messages.
The menu is also unique, offering items not often seen in Japanese bars, such as Australian beef meat pies. Of course, Japanese drinks are also plentiful.
<Store Information>
Address: G2 Street, Golden Gai, 2F, 1-1-9 Kabukicho, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0021
Closed: None
Phone: 03-5272-1651
Hours (Sundays to Thursdays): 7:00 PM–1:00 AM
Hours (Fridays): 7:00 PM–2:00 AM
Hours (Saturdays): 7:00 PM–1:30 AM
Website: https://www.facebook.com/bar.araku/
CAMBIARE
CAMBIARE is an Italian bar characterized by its stylish atmosphere, which stands out in Golden Gai.
The interior is decorated with modern and stylish elements, setting it apart from other stores in Golden Gai. However, it still maintains the intimate atmosphere characteristic of Golden Gai.
There are many foreign customers, creating an international atmosphere. Therefore, it's one of the easier places to enter for those visiting Golden Gai for the first time.
Notably, there are many female customers. While Golden Gai tends to have more male customers overall, CAMBIARE has an atmosphere where women can easily enter alone or in groups. I often visit with my female friends, and they always find it comfortable.
CAMBIARE is recommended for those who want to enjoy the traditional atmosphere of Golden Gai while also experiencing a slightly more stylish mood. I think it's a bar that women and those who are a bit nervous about Golden Gai can visit with peace of mind.
<Store Information>
Address: 1 Chome-1-7 Kabukicho, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0021
Closed: Irregular
Phone: Unavailable
Hours: Irregular
Website: Unavailable
These bars each have their own character, allowing you to experience the diverse charms of Golden Gai. If you have time, please enjoy "bar hopping"!
Night Tours to Enjoy Golden Gai
For those who want to safely and deeply experience the nightlife of Shinjuku, including Golden Gai, I recommend guided night tours. Here, I'll introduce two attractive tours.
Experience the Drinking Culture of Golden Gai: Magical Trip's "Tokyo Bar Hopping Night Tour in Shinjuku"
For those who want to experience the unique drinking culture of Golden Gai more deeply, I recommend the "Tokyo Bar Hopping Night Tour in Shinjuku" offered by Magical Trip. This tour visits hidden gems in Shinjuku over 3.5 hours, including Golden Gai.
Visiting a bar in Golden Gai with a local guide allows you to enjoy the atmosphere unique to this area while experiencing Japanese izakaya culture. The charm of Golden Gai is that you can enjoy food, drinks, and conversations that you can only experience there, despite the small space.
You can enjoy authentic Japanese izakaya dishes such as yakitori, gyoza, and fried tofu, as well as drinks like sake and beer, all included in an all-in-one package. This makes it easy for first-time visitors to Golden Gai to enjoy without worry.
Since you're going around with a guide, you won't be confused by the complex alleys or unique atmosphere. You can also hear explanations about the history and culture of Golden Gai, allowing you to deepen your understanding of this area beyond just enjoying food and drink.
Click here for more details: Tokyo Bar Hopping Night Tour in Shinjuku
Enjoy the Atmosphere of Golden Gai: Tokyo Localized's "Shinjuku Night Free Walking Tour"
Source: Tokyo Localized
For those who want to leisurely savor the unique townscape and atmosphere of Golden Gai, the "Shinjuku Night Free Walking Tour" offered by Tokyo Localized is perfect. This tour is a night walking tour that visits the main spots in Shinjuku over 2 hours, with Golden Gai being an important stop.
You can observe the narrow alleys of Golden Gai and the rows of unique small bars while listening to explanations from an English-speaking guide. The guide provides detailed explanations about the history, culture, and current state of Golden Gai, allowing you to deepen your understanding of this unique area.
What's notable is that there's free time in Golden Gai after the tour ends. You can explore the charms of Golden Gai at your own pace, using the knowledge gained from the guide.
Click here for more details: Shinjuku Night Free Walking Tour
Both tours offer content that allows you to fully enjoy the charms of Golden Gai. I recommend the "Tokyo Bar Hopping Night Tour" for those who want to actually visit bars and enjoy food and drink, and the "Shinjuku Night Free Walking Tour" for those who want to leisurely feel the atmosphere of the area.
Golden Gai might require a bit of courage to visit alone due to its unique atmosphere. However, by using these guided tours, you can safely and deeply experience the charms of Golden Gai.
Spots to Visit Along with Golden Gai in Shinjuku
After enjoying Golden Gai, why not visit other spots in Shinjuku? Here, I'll introduce three spots that I often visit.
Omoide Yokocho
Omoide Yokocho is a drinking area that, like Golden Gai, is attractive for its retro atmosphere. Located just a 5-minute walk from Shinjuku Station's West Exit, you can enjoy a more down-to-earth atmosphere different from Golden Gai.
This place developed from a post-war black market and still strongly retains the atmosphere of that time. The small izakayas and eateries lining the narrow alleys make you feel as if you've time-traveled to that era.
The charm of Omoide Yokocho lies in its common people's cuisine. There's an abundance of traditional Japanese izakaya menus such as yakitori, stewed dishes, and grilled offal. Especially, the yakitori carefully grilled over charcoal goes perfectly with beer.
Also, Omoide Yokocho starts to get lively a bit earlier than Golden Gai. Therefore, I recommend it for a meal before heading to Golden Gai, or conversely, as a final stop after bar hopping in Golden Gai.
If you want to know more about this alley, please check out the Omoide Yokocho Guide.
Website: https://shinjuku-omoide.com/
Kabukicho
Kabukicho is known as Japan's largest entertainment district and is located right next to Golden Gai. This area is said to never sleep and has a modern and lively atmosphere in contrast to Golden Gai.
Whenever I visit Kabukicho, I'm always amazed by its overwhelming energy. The cityscape illuminated by neon signs, sidewalks overflowing with people, and music flowing endlessly. This can be said to be the symbol of Tokyo's "sleepless city".
The charm of Kabukicho lies in its diverse entertainment facilities. You can enjoy various activities such as large karaoke establishments, game centers, and movie theaters.
There are also many restaurants in Kabukicho. Various types of establishments line up, from high-end clubs to casual izakayas.
However, caution is needed in some areas of Kabukicho. Especially at night, be careful of touts and suspicious solicitations. That said, if you stick to the main streets and avoid responding to suspicious invitations, you can enjoy safely.
If you want to know more about this area, please check out the Kabukicho Guide.
Shinjuku Ni-chome
Shinjuku Ni-chome is known as Japan's largest gay town, famous for being LGBTQ-friendly. It's within walking distance from Golden Gai, and its unique atmosphere of diversity and tolerance is attractive.
Every time I visit Shinjuku Ni-chome, I feel its open and warm atmosphere. Here, a space spreads where everyone can be themselves freely, regardless of gender or sexual orientation.
Shinjuku Ni-chome has various dining establishments lining up. There are different types of stores such as bars, clubs, and karaoke, each with its own unique atmosphere.
Also, the charm of this area lies in its inclusivity. Even if you don't belong to the LGBTQ community, anyone with an open mind is welcome. As a heterosexual person, I've had experiences of meeting people with various backgrounds and enjoying interesting conversations.
However, it's important to be discreet about taking photos and respect others' privacy. When I first visited, I got excited by the unique atmosphere and tried to take photos, but was cautioned by a friend who was with me.
Visiting this area after bar hopping in Golden Gai can help you discover a new aspect of Shinjuku's night.
If you want to know more about this gay town, please check out the Shinjuku 2-chome Guide.
Frequently Asked Questions About Golden Gai
Here are some questions I'm often asked about Golden Gai.
Is Golden Gai Dangerous?
Golden Gai is basically a very safe area. I've been going there for many years, but I've never encountered any danger. If you take general precautions when bar hopping, you can fully enjoy it.
Even at night, there are many people around, and the eyes of store owners and regular customers make it quite safe. Rather, I feel it's a place where you can enjoy warm interactions with locals and other visitors.
However, please be careful as there are some dangerous areas in the adjacent Kabukicho.
Do I Need a Reservation?
Most stores in Golden Gai don't require reservations. I often visit without a reservation. However, popular stores or members-only stores may require reservations. Also, in Golden Gai where many stores are small, it's often difficult to accommodate large groups without notice.
What's the Recommended Time?
Many stores in Golden Gai open around 8:00 PM. From my experience, the busiest time is from 9:00 PM to 11:00 PM. During this time, the whole area is filled with energy from office workers returning from work and young people.
After midnight, there are more stores where you can drink in a slightly calmer atmosphere. I often end up going late due to work, but this time also has its unique charm.
Is It Okay If I Can't Speak Japanese?
You can enjoy Golden Gai even if you can't speak Japanese. In recent years, with the increase of foreign tourists, there are more stores that can handle English. Many stores have English menus for foreigners.
I think you'll enjoy it more if you remember some simple Japanese (for example, "beer", "highball", "appetizer", etc.). My foreign friends say they were able to enjoy the atmosphere of Golden Gai more deeply by learning and using such simple Japanese.
Recently, using translation apps on smartphones is also a method, so please make use of them.
Golden Gai, a local spot, might indeed feel a bit anxious at first. However, once you actually visit, you're sure to be drawn to its unique charm. Even I, who has been visiting since university days, make new discoveries every time I go and never get bored.
Please use this article as a reference to fully enjoy the nightlife in Golden Gai!