Sorce: HAGISO Official Website

"HAGI CAFE" renovated from a Japanese apartment building at Yanaka Ginza

cafe & restaurants Published: Jun 5, 2024
Updated: Dec 19, 2024

Tokyo is currently undergoing large-scale redevelopment said to occur only once in 100 years. Many historic old buildings that have long supported people's lives in Tokyo are being demolished and new buildings are being constructed one after another. Because of this, there are fewer and fewer places where you can see old townscapes. 

However, in Yanaka Ginza, you can still experience the unchanged retro townscape from that time, thanks to the desire of local people to carefully preserve the old townscape.

One of them is the black building that catches your eye as you walk through the town of Yanaka - the somewhat mysterious building "HAGISO" that is retro yet new. Inside this building, which was renovated from an apartment built in 1955, there are individual shops such as a cafe, gallery, and salon. It has now been reborn as a place where small exchanges between people are born. Today, I will introduce the cafe "HAGI CAFE" inside it.

Step back in time on our enchanting Yanaka Historical Walking Tour, where Tokyo's traditional soul still beats strong. Meander through the nostalgic streets of old Tokyo, discovering the majestic Nezu Shrine with its 1900-year legacy and the charming alleyways of Yanaka district. Along the way, sample local delicacies and pause for a relaxing café break. Create your own lucky cat as a unique souvenir of your journey. This intimate walking tour reveals a hidden Tokyo where ancient traditions and modern life harmoniously blend, offering an authentic glimpse into Japan's rich cultural heritage.
Magical Trip's tour earned Tripadvisor's 'Best of the Best' award

Reasons to recommend HAGI CAFE

Feel the atmosphere of a Japanese "apartment"

HAGISO
Source: Official website

HAGISO was created by renovating the wooden apartment building "Hagi-sou" built in 1955. 
Hagi-sou had a total of 14 rooms, with 7 rooms on the 1st floor and 7 rooms on the 2nd floor.

Although there are parts where the layout has been greatly changed, such as the high ceiling, the one-room units on the 2nd floor are almost unchanged from the apartment era, and you can feel the atmosphere of that time on your skin.

In Japan, apartments refer to multi-unit housing with 2 floors or less. Compared to condominiums, they are small-scale, and in the old wooden apartments, the kitchen and toilet were shared, so I think the residents had close ties with each other. When students from Tokyo University of the Arts started living there in 2004, they didn't even lock the doors to their rooms!

At HAGISO, you can feel the warm atmosphere of such an apartment.

Stylish and open space

HAGI CAFE
Source: Official website

"HAGI CAFE" occupies more than half of the first floor of HAGISO. Once you pass through the chic black entrance, a stylish and open space spreads out. The sunlight pouring in from the large windows and the warm lighting in the store. You can feel the history of the building from the aged wooden pillars and ceilings. On the opposite side of the cafe, there is a room with an attached gallery where an artistic space spreads out.

It's an innovative yet nostalgic space that soothes the soul. At the cafe counter, you can see the staff making coffee. A cup of coffee in a retro space will be an exceptional one. I love spending time in cafes in old buildings, so I feel like I could stay there forever forgetting about time. There are also terrace seats, so eating and drinking outside is recommended on nice days.

Recommended menu at HAGI CAFE

Meals

While the building tends to get a lot of attention at HAGI CAFE, the food is also highly rated, and many people come to enjoy the taste.

The breakfast menu is popular, and some customers come early in the morning to order the "Traveling Breakfast Set". The set meal, which changes with the seasons and features specialties from various regions of Japan, is voluminous with many dishes. You can enjoy Japanese breakfast such as crispy grilled fish and rolled omelet.

The mackerel sandwich and keema curry in the lunch menu have been popular tastes since the establishment. You can also get them to go. On weekends and holidays, there is also a reasonably priced course menu that can be enjoyed with alcohol.
At HAGI CAFE, you can have a satisfying meal no matter what time of day you visit.

Mackerel Sandwich

Saba Sandwitch
Source: Tabelog

The mackerel sandwich, which has been around since the opening in 2013, is HAGI CAFE's signature menu item!
It's a luxurious dish that uses generous amounts of mackerel. The mackerel, which has been carefully prepared without any unpleasant smell, is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. 

It's a simple-looking dish that brings out the best of the ingredients, but the combination of mackerel and honey mustard sauce is superb, and you'll gobble it up. I love the combination of sweet and salty, so I can't resist it.

You can also get the mackerel sandwich to go. If the cafe is crowded, you can buy a sandwich and enjoy it at Tenshin Okakura Memorial Park right in front.

Curry

Curry
Source: Official website

Along with the mackerel sandwich, the keema curry is also popular. Many repeat customers say, "Once you eat it, you'll be hooked!" The characteristics of HAGI CAFE's keema curry are the spicy rice and the firm, soft-boiled egg.
The egg sitting cutely in the middle makes for a cute-looking dish.

When you eat it with the minced meat curry that is fragrant with spices, the taste is superb. A mild flavor spreads in your mouth. Even though it's spicy, it's not too hot, and the curry has a well-calculated balance of deliciousness.

At lunchtime, it's served as a great-value set with a drink and salad.

Desserts

HAGI CAFE is also a kid-friendly restaurant. Children and women love desserts! That's why the dessert menu is also extensive at such a store.

Regulars also give high marks for the quality of the desserts, and some customers come just for the desserts. From the "Rum-soaked Fig Cheesecake" that has been around since the establishment to the parfaits and seasonal chiffon cakes, you can feel the commitment.

I love sweets, so just looking at the photos of the delicious-looking desserts makes my mouth water. You can eat them after a meal or just as a dessert. Find your favorites from the extensive menu.

Rum-soaked Fig Cheesecake

Cheese Cake
Source: Tabelog

When it comes to HAGI CAFE's desserts, this is it! The "Rum-soaked Fig Cheesecake" featuring figs has been a deeply popular item since the establishment.

The figs soaked in rum inside the rich cheesecake have a slightly adult taste. The texture of the seeds that pop in your mouth is also interesting. It's a cheesecake that you can enjoy with all five senses. The sweetness is also mild, so even I, who is on a diet, can eat it without feeling guilty.

For those who have enjoyed a meal, a half-size portion is also available, so don't forget to order this dessert as well. You can also get it to go, so it's perfect for a souvenir.

Parfaits

Parfait
Source: Tabelog

HAGI CAFE always has two types of parfaits. One is the standard HAGISO parfait. It's a greedy parfait packed with everyone's favorites, such as bananas, chocolate, brownies, castella, and coffee jelly.

The mascarpone cream used is a nice accent. The flag sticking out of the top adds a playful touch. The other is a seasonal limited-edition parfait. This one uses seasonal fruits and nuts, as well as unique ice creams such as tofu ice cream and roasted tea ice cream, so the theme changes with the seasons, which I look forward to every time. The colors are also beautiful, and you can enjoy a slightly more adult-tasting parfait.

HAGI CAFE also regularly holds an event called "Night Parfait Club" where you can enjoy luxurious parfaits that are not on the menu.

Drinks

Drink
Source:Tabelog

The handwritten menu at HAGI CAFE is exciting. You'll be surprised at the variety of drink options.

In addition to coffee, there are over 30 types of drinks available at all times, including coffee arrangement menus such as cafe latte, fruity juices, teas, and even alcohol.

The seasonal limited-edition menus that use plenty of seasonal ingredients all look delicious! It's hard to decide which one to choose, but you're sure to find a drink you like that suits your mood of the day.

There are also drinks available for children, which is great for those with kids in tow.

Coffee with Sweet Sake and Brown Sugar Syrup

"Coffee with Sweet Sake and Brown Sugar Syrup" is inspired by the New Year. Sweet sake is a fermented beverage made by adding rice malt, a type of fungus, to cooked rice, and it is characterized by a mild sweetness.

When added to coffee, you might wonder, "What kind of taste will it have?" but the sweetness of the sweet sake used in place of sugar is gentle and very mild. The cream and brown sugar syrup on top also add a nice accent, making it a drink that warms your heart.

HAGI CAFE offers unique arrangement menus that change with the seasons, but I love how they all have a harmonious taste. Please give them a try.

Floats

ice cream float
Source: Tabelog

When I think of a retro cafe, the first menu item that comes to mind is a float.
Of course, HAGI CAFE also offers floats. One is the standard coffee float. The rich coffee mixes with the ice cream for a refreshing taste that can be enjoyed all year round.

The other is a seasonal float. It uses seasonal fruits such as grapes and strawberries, or soda floats that evoke the feeling of summer, so the theme changes with the seasons, which I look forward to every time.

All the floats have a generous amount of large ice cream on top, making them cute to look at and great for photos.

Access to HAGI CAFE

- Address: 3-10-25 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- JR / Keisei Nippori Station: 6-minute walk via Gotenzaka from the North Exit
- Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line Sendagi Station: 6-minute walk from Exit 2

Recommended way to visit

Since it's a popular restaurant, there may be times when it's crowded and you can't enter. Reservations are accepted except during the morning hours, so if you have a set plan, be sure to make a reservation before going. Same-day reservations for seats are not accepted, so please make a reservation by the day before.

Reservations for takeout menu items are accepted until 3 hours before the same day.

Reservation site: https://www.tablecheck.com/shops/hagiso/reserve?menu_lists%5B%5D=5ff98491bad167000fb5bbce%3Futm_source%3Dinstagram

It is often crowded and it may take some time for the food to be served. Please visit with plenty of time to spare. Also, free Wi-Fi is available, so it's recommended to spend time leisurely while planning your trip.

Basic information about HAGI CAFE

- Business hours: Monday-Friday 8:30-10:30, 12:00-17:00 
Weekends & holidays 8:30-10:30, 12:00-20:00  
- Address: 3-10-25 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Phone number: 03-5832-9808
- URL: https://hagiso.com/hagiso/

Step back in time in Tokyo's enchanting Yanaka-Nezu district, where traditional Japan still thrives in beautiful backstreets and ancient temples. Our Yanaka Historical walking tour takes you through the heart of Old Tokyo, featuring the magnificent Nezu Shrine with its 1900-year legacy, and the charming Yanaka area where traditional crafts and local life flourish. Create your own lucky cat as a unique memento of your journey, and savor authentic Japanese treats as you stroll through historic streets. With delightful café breaks and street food tastings, this tour offers the perfect blend of cultural immersion, creativity, and culinary delights in Tokyo's most nostalgic neighborhood!

Eri

I'm Eri, I've been living in Tokyo for more than 10 years! I love to travel, finding good restaurants, sightseeing spots so I know well around Tokyo. I hope you ca get some ideas from my articles!