Horaiya Hirekatsu in Ueno (Birthplace of Hirekatsu)
Ueno is a hub of various tourist attractions, including the Ueno Zoological Gardens, Tokyo National Museum, and Ameyoko shopping street. Accessible by a single train ride from Narita Airport and conveniently connected to central Tokyo, it's always bustling with tourists and locals alike.
Ueno is home to various beloved local dining establishments, including izakayas and Japanese restaurants. Among the most popular dishes is "Tonkatsu," which is breaded and deep-fried pork cutlet.
Today, we introduce "Horaiya," a specialized restaurant that serves tonkatsu using only tender pork tenderloin. We'll explore the appeal of Horaiya Hirekatsu and their recommended menu items at this establishment, which has maintained its high popularity for over 100 years.
Horaiya: A Historic Hirekatsu Specialist Founded in 1912 and Famous as the Birthplace of Hirekatsu
"Horaiya" is a specialist hirekatsu restaurant established in 1912. Initially operating as a food stand beside Matsuzakaya Ueno store, it moved to its current location in 1928 and has been serving exclusively hirekatsu for over 100 years.
During its founding era, when using pork loin was standard for tonkatsu, Horaiya began serving tender hirekatsu, which quickly gained popularity.
The "double-frying" (nidoage) technique, now widely adopted by various restaurants, is said to have originated at Horaiya. This method involves frying at two different temperatures, resulting in juicy meat inside and a crispy coating outside.
What is Hirekatsu?
"Horaiya" is a specialist hirekatsu restaurant established in 1912. Initially operating as a food stand beside Matsuzakaya Ueno store, it moved to its current location in 1928 and has been serving exclusively hirekatsu for over 100 years.
During its founding era, when using pork loin was standard for tonkatsu, Horaiya began serving tender hirekatsu, which quickly gained popularity.
The "double-frying" (nidoage) technique, now widely adopted by various restaurants, is said to have originated at Horaiya. This method involves frying at two different temperatures, resulting in juicy meat inside and a crispy coating outside.
What is Hirekatsu?
Hirekatsu is a Japanese dish made from pork tenderloin, a rare cut yielding only about 400g per pig, which is breaded and deep-fried. It's characterized by its lean, clean taste and tender texture.
It's typically served with shredded cabbage and eaten with various condiments such as tonkatsu sauce, soy sauce, salt, or Japanese mustard.
Hirekatsu is more tender than loin katsu, making it easy to eat for everyone from children to elderly people. Once you try it, you'll be amazed by the combination of tender meat and crispy coating that makes Horaiya Hirekatsu special.
Why is Horaiya So Popular? A Detailed Look at 3 Key Attractions That Draw Customers from Far and Wide
Exquisite Hirekatsu Made with Premium Japanese Ingredients
Source: Tabelog
Horaiya Hirekatsu is crafted exclusively using carefully selected Japanese pork tenderloin. The chefs meticulously remove excess fat and sinews from the meat, resulting in a clean, light taste without any greasiness. The removed sinews and fat don't go to waste – they're used to create the flavorful broth for the miso soup.
Horaiya takes special pride in their frying oil, creating a daily fresh blend of lard (pork fat) and hett (beef fat) that's slowly melted in large pots. We invite you to experience their hirekatsu's clean, crisp finish that comes from being fried in this fresh oil blend.
Crispy Texture Achieved Through Fine Breadcrumbs and Double-Frying Technique
Source: Tabelog
Horaiya Hirekatsu uses "nama panko" (fresh breadcrumbs) made from soft bread that hasn't been dried. These breadcrumbs are hand-processed to achieve an extremely fine texture.
The restaurant employs a unique double-frying technique using oils at different temperatures. First, the cutlet is fried for about one minute in high-temperature oil (around 220°C) to seal in the meat's juices, then transferred to lower-temperature oil (around 180°C) for a slow 10-minute fry.
While many restaurants now use double-frying techniques, Horaiya is credited as the pioneer of this method. Their commitment to quality ingredients and specialized techniques results in a juicy hirekatsu with a delicate coating.
Traditional Japanese Atmosphere in Both Exterior and Interior
Source: Tabelog
Interestingly, you won't find the word "tonkatsu" anywhere on Horaiya's exterior. The two-story white retro building simply displays the kanji characters for "Horaiya" on its signboard and noren (traditional entrance curtain). The tiled roof and sliding doors enhance its authentic Japanese atmosphere.
The first floor features a nine-seat counter where customers can observe the chefs' precise preparation techniques. The second floor offers a traditional Japanese inn experience with tatami-matted rooms.
While waiting for your meal, immerse yourself in the traditional Japanese ambiance of this long-established restaurant.
Frequently Referenced in Films by Legendary Japanese Director Yasujiro Ozu
Source: Wikipedia
Yasujiro Ozu is one of Japan's most celebrated film directors. His connection to Horaiya restaurant was so profound that they even created a special menu item called "Tokyo Story Meal," inspired by one of his masterpieces, "Tokyo Story."
As a regular customer, Ozu was so devoted to Horaiya's Hirekatsu (pork tenderloin cutlet) that he continued ordering it from his hospital bed until his final days.
In his last film, "An Autumn Afternoon," he created a set inspired by Horaiya, featuring actors actually eating Horaiya's signature Hirekatsu. References to Horaiya can be found throughout his other films, demonstrating Ozu's deep affection for the establishment.
Only Three Menu Items! Horaiya's Carefully Crafted Selections
Hirekatsu Set Meal
Source: Official website
The Hirekatsu set meal is Horaiya's signature dish. It features a tenderloin cutlet coated in a light breading, served with shredded cabbage, white rice, miso soup (made with stock from pork tendons), pickled vegetables for palate cleansing, and mustard as a condiment.
The thick, substantial Hirekatsu is carefully cooked to retain its juiciness. The crisp shredded cabbage provides a refreshing contrast after each bite of the cutlet.
The Hirekatsu, seasoned simply with salt and pepper, perfectly showcases the natural umami of the pork.
Kushikatsu Set Meal
Source: Tabelog
Kushikatsu consists of alternating pieces of meat and vegetables on skewers, breaded and deep-fried. Horaiya's version uses only uniformly-cut tenderloin and green onions, served with the skewers removed for easier eating.
The Kushikatsu set meal includes four pieces of kushikatsu, a generous portion of shredded cabbage, white rice, miso soup, pickled vegetables, and mustard as a condiment.
The combination of sweetened green onions and the savory breaded tenderloin creates an exquisite flavor profile.
Bite-Sized Pork Cutlet Set Meal
Source: Tabelog
The bite-sized pork cutlet set meal at Horaiya Hirekatsu consists of 5 small-sized pork tenderloin cutlets served with shredded cabbage, white rice, miso soup, pickles, and mustard. While the dish is called "bite-sized," the cutlets are actually quite substantial and require more than just one bite to consume.
Unlike the regular tenderloin cutlet set which features one large piece, each mini-sized piece of tenderloin in this set is individually breaded. This makes it perfect for those who particularly enjoy the crispy coating.
Among the three types of set meals available, I highly recommend the bite-sized cutlet set. The juicy meat of the Horaiya Hirekatsu combined with the thin, crispy coating creates a perfect balance that remains delicious until the last bite.
If you're dining with others, why not order different set meals to experience the variety of flavors?
Limited-Quantity Premium Minced Meat Cutlet - A Popular Take-Out Item
The minced meat cutlet (menchi-katsu) is a deep-fried dish made of ground meat mixed with onions. Horaiya offers a 120g minced meat cutlet exclusively for takeout. When you bite into it, the meat juices burst forth, allowing you to fully savor the umami of the tenderloin meat and the sweetness of the onions.
While the 120g minced meat cutlet is only available for takeout, a mini-sized version is included in the "Tokyo Monogatari Zen" set meal. Though smaller in size compared to the takeout version, the taste remains exactly the same.
This refined-tasting minced meat cutlet is so delicious you'll want more than just one. If you're dining in, consider ordering some takeout minced cutlets to enjoy later.
Horaiya Access and Basic Information
<Facility Information>
- Address: 3-28-5 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Access: 8-minute walk from Ueno Station (next to Matsuzakaya Ueno Store)
- Business Hours:
Monday-Friday: Lunch Only 11:30-14:30 (Last Order 14:00)
Weekends/Holidays: Lunch 11:30-14:30 (Last Order 14:00), Dinner 17:00-20:30 (Last Order 19:30)
- Closed: Wednesdays (If Wednesday is a holiday, closed the following Thursday)
- Phone: 03-3831-5783
- Official Website: http://www.ueno-horaiya.com/index.html
When in Ueno, Don't Miss the "Ueno Gosanke" - Three Outstanding Tonkatsu Restaurants!
Ponta Honke (Tonkatsu)
Source: Tabelog
Ponta Honke, established in 1905 in Ueno, is a historic Western-style restaurant. They serve various Western dishes, including their "cutlet" (here, tonkatsu is served under the name "cutlet") made with high-quality pork, fried seafood dishes featuring fresh ingredients, and Black Wagyu beef tongue stew.
They carefully remove the fat from the loin and process it into homemade lard for frying. The cutlet, which is cooked for over 10 minutes, has an incredibly tender and juicy texture that makes you forget the fat was removed.
Why not try their exceptional tonkatsu at this historic restaurant that has been operating for about 120 years?
<Facility Information>
- Address: 3-23-3 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Business Hours:
Tuesday-Sunday/Holidays <Lunch> 11:00-14:00 (L.O. 13:45)
Tuesday-Saturday/Day before holidays <Dinner> 16:30-20:20 (L.O. 19:45)
Sunday/Holidays <Dinner> 16:00-20:20 (L.O. 19:45)
- Closed: Mondays, Summer Holiday (August 19-26, 2024), Other (September 2-6, 2024) *If Monday is a holiday, open on Monday and closed the following Tuesday
- Phone: 050-5492-8353
- Official Website: https://g608200.gorp.jp/
Tonpachitei (Tonkatsu)
Source: Tabelog
Established in 1947, Tonpachitei is a renowned tonkatsu restaurant featured in the Michelin Guide. Their tonkatsu menu offers three options: Horaiya Hirekatsu Set (pork fillet cutlet), Rosu-katsu Set (pork loin cutlet), and Hitokuchi-katsu Set (bite-sized cutlet). All sets come with rice, miso soup, and pickles.
The tonkatsu is deep-fried slowly at a low temperature of 130°C, resulting in a whitish coating and slightly pink meat. This slow-cooking method produces an exceptionally tender and juicy cutlet.
The table is equipped with various toppings including sauce and soy sauce. My personal recommendation is the rock salt, which enhances the umami of the oil and brings out the natural flavor of the pork.
<Facility Information>
- Address: 4-3-4 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Business Hours: Tuesday-Sunday/Holidays 11:30-14:30 (L.O. 14:30) *Until sold out
- Closed: Mondays (If Monday is a holiday, open on Monday and closed the following day)
- Phone: 03-3831-4209
- Official Website: https://gbb4200.gorp.jp/
Isen Honten
Source: Official website
Isen Honten, established in 1905, is a long-standing tonkatsu restaurant that has been operating in Ueno. The retro exterior of the building reflects its long history in the area. While some may know the famous Horaiya Hirekatsu in Tokyo, Isen Honten has carved out its own unique identity.
Their signature dish, which also serves as the restaurant's catchphrase, is "tonkatsu so tender you can cut it with chopsticks." The thick pork cutlet is perfectly coated in crispy breadcrumbs and fried to a golden brown, creating an exquisite dish. It's ideal for family dining as people of all ages, from children to elderly, can easily enjoy its tender texture.
At the counter seats on the first floor, you can watch the chefs at work. The second floor features traditional Japanese-style tatami seating, offering a nostalgic atmosphere. The dining experience becomes extra special as you enjoy your tonkatsu while viewing the courtyard garden that extends from the first floor.
<Facility Information>
- Address: 3-40-3 Yushima, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
- Business Hours: Weekdays, Sundays, and Holidays 11:30-20:10 (Last order 19:45)
- Closed: Wednesdays (Open on holidays)
- Phone: 03-3834-2901
- Official Website: https://www.isen-honten.jp/
Isen Honten: The Birthplace of "Katsu Sando"
Source: Official website
A katsu sando is a sandwich made by coating tonkatsu in sauce and placing it between slices of bread. It allows you to enjoy the combination of soft bread and crispy tonkatsu in one convenient hand-held meal.
The story goes that the wife of the first-generation owner came up with the idea of the "cutlet sandwich," thinking about making tonkatsu as easy to eat as a nori-wrapped rice ball.
Additionally, due to the presence of many geisha who performed traditional arts and dance in tatami rooms around Ueno at the time, the sandwich was specifically designed to be smaller so that geisha could eat it without smudging their makeup. This led to the current compact size of the katsu sando.
When visiting Isen Honten, be sure to try their historic katsu sando alongside their regular tonkatsu offerings.
