Noryo Yuka / Kawadoko: Kyoto's Riverside Dining in Summer
Kyoto, with its numerous historical shrines and temples, is a popular tourist destination where nature can be experienced just a short distance from the city center. While preserving tradition, Kyoto has developed its unique culture. This elegant atmosphere, which retains a distinctly Japanese feel, is particularly popular among foreign visitors.
Kyoto is also famous as a city that attracts gourmets. It once ranked third in the world for the number of Michelin-listed restaurants. Kaiseki cuisine (traditional multi-course Japanese dinner), shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine), and obanzai (Kyoto-style home cooking) are especially popular among tourists.
In summer, visitors can enjoy delicious meals in the traditional Noryo Yuka or Kawadoko style at restaurants along the Kamo River and in the Kibune area. This article will introduce the concept of Noryo Yuka and Kawadoko, along with recommended restaurants.
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Noryo Yuka and Kawadoko: A Summer Tradition in Kyoto
Noryo Yuka and Kawadoko refer to dining spaces set up along riversides where people can enjoy meals. The key attraction is the ability to escape the heat while savoring food and tea, cooled by the river breeze and the sound of flowing water. This seasonal event, typically held from May to September, has become a popular summer tradition among both locals and tourists in Kyoto.
The practice began during the Edo period when bridges were developed, and the area around the Kamo River flourished with entertainers and vendors. Today, it has evolved to the point where Noryo Yuka and Kawadoko are held in multiple areas. The appeal lies in the natural cooling effect, allowing visitors to escape the midsummer heat without air conditioning.
While Noryo Yuka and Kawadoko have similar meanings, they are called differently depending on the location: Noryo Yuka (floor) along the Kamo River, and Kawadoko (river floor) in Kibune and Takao areas.
Noryo Yuka and Kawadoko Can Be Enjoyed Mainly in Three Areas
In Kyoto, Noryo Yuka and Kawadoko can be enjoyed primarily in three areas: the Kamo River area in central Kyoto, the Kibune area about an hour from the center, and the Takao area, famous for autumn leaves, about 30 minutes from the center.
Each area offers a unique charm to discover.
Called "Noryo Yuka" in the Kamo River Area, "Kawadoko" in Kibune and Takao Areas
Why are they called "Noryo Yuka" in the Kamo River area and "Kawadoko" in the Kibune and Takao areas, despite having similar meanings?
Noryo Yuka refers to floors extended from the upper levels of buildings, overlooking the flowing river. On the other hand, Kawadoko features floors laid out along the riverside, allowing visitors to feel the coolness up close. This slight difference in design is the reason for the different names.
Let's explain the differences in each area in more detail.
Features of the Kamo River Area
source：LE UN magazine
The Kamo River, flowing from north to south through Kyoto City, is an essential part of Kyoto's culture and is considered symbolic of the city. It's a tourist spot with excellent access, just a 15-minute bus ride from Kyoto Station.
The Noryo Yuka along the Kamo River is characterized by terrace-style floors extending about 3 meters above the water surface. Another attractive point is the row of about 100 shops stretching from Nijo to Gojo.
The variety of cuisines is rich, offering not only Japanese food but also Chinese, French, and Italian options. Part of the fun is choosing a restaurant based on your mood at the time.
Features of the Kibune Area
source：Wikipedia
Kibune, about a 40-minute drive from Kyoto Station, is rich in nature and known as "Kyoto's inner parlor."
The Kawadoko in Kibune originated in the Taisho era when shops set up tables by the river to allow customers to cool their feet in the water as a measure against the summer heat. This tradition continues today, with floors set just 10-20 centimeters above the water surface, in contrast to the elevated floors of the Kamo River area.
There are about 20 shops along the Kibune River offering Kawadoko, making it a competitive area. The temperature here is about 10 degrees lower than in central Kyoto, making it especially recommended for those who want to experience natural coolness on the Kawadoko.
Features of the Takao Area
Takao, located about a 50-minute train ride from Kyoto Station, is another tourist spot known as "Kyoto's inner parlor" like Kibune. It's famous as a summer retreat due to its cooler temperatures. Floors are set up along the Kiyotaki River, allowing visitors to enjoy meals surrounded by trees and nature.
From June to July, visitors can observe natural fireflies, which is a highlight. As Takao is also popular for autumn leaves, many restaurants offer plans to view the foliage. The fact that many shops continue to offer Kawadoko until the beautiful autumn season is part of its enduring popularity.
Recommended Restaurants for Noryo Yuka and Kawadoko by Area
Kamo River Area for Noryo Yuka
Pontocho Idumoya
source：Official website
Pontocho Idumoya's Noryo Yuka offers a spacious 100-seat area over the Kegon River, which flows alongside the Kamo River. It's open from May 1st to October 31st.
The lunch menu includes three options: Hyotan Bento (3,190 yen, 3,740 yen with tempura), Hana Izumo (2,970 yen). The dinner menu offers sukiyaki (from 3,960 yen), shabu-shabu (from 3,960 yen), and Noryo Kaiseki in three grades: Matsu (6,600 yen), Take (8,800 yen), and Ume (11,000 yen). A children's bento (880 yen) is available at both lunch and dinner, making it easy for families to dine here.
I ordered the Hyotan Bento for lunch. The three-tiered container resembling a gourd is charming and adds to the appeal.
<Store Information>
- Address: 173-2 Kashiwaya-cho, Pontocho-dori, Shijo-agaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto City
- Closed: Open all year round
- Phone: 075-211-2501
- Hours: 11:30-22:00
- Official website
LE UN
source：Official website
LE UN's Noryo Yuka is popular for its excellent location overlooking Kyoto's iconic Kiyomizu Temple and five-story pagoda. It's open from May 1st to the end of September.
The restaurant specializes in French cuisine using local vegetables. Lunch options include Kawadoko Lunch A (4,800 yen) where you choose between meat or fish for the main dish, and Kawadoko Lunch B (5,800 yen) which includes both meat and fish mains. Dinner options range from the weekday Kawadoko Dinner plan featuring duck (from 7,800 yen) to the Kawadoko Dinner D (16,500 yen) with lobster and Japanese black beef.
The variety of options, including reasonable weekday plans, 2-hour free drink deals, and the ability to reserve seats with good views in advance, adds to its appeal.
I tried the Kawadoko Lunch B and was impressed by the stylish presentation of the dishes. The bread is refillable, making it great for those with big appetites. The sophisticated atmosphere makes it especially recommended for women.
<Store Information>
- Address: 180 Minoya-cho, Kiyamachi-dori, Matsubara-agaru, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto City
- Closed: Tuesdays (open daily during Kawadoko season)
- Phone: 075-351-8541
- Hours: 11:30-15:30, 17:30-22:00
- Official website
Ryokan Tsuruse
source：Official website
Ryokan Tsuruse's Noryo Yuka is notable for being one of the largest in Japan, accommodating up to 200 people. Visitors can enjoy a relaxed time in the retro atmosphere of a building constructed in the early Showa period. It's open from May to the end of September.
Dinner menus include course meals of 9 dishes (10,000 yen), 10 dishes (12,000 yen), and 11 dishes (16,000 or 20,000 yen). Lunch menus, available only in May, June, and September, offer 7 dishes (6,000 yen) and 8 dishes (7,000 yen), plus the four dinner options.
I tried the 11-dish course and was satisfied with the abundance of seafood, including grilled ayu (sweetfish), hamo (pike conger) hot pot, abalone, shrimp, and squid.
The hamo hot pot with its subtle sweetness and mild broth was particularly delicious. With its large seating capacity, it's perfect for group dining.
<Store Information>
- Address: Kiyamachi Gojo-agaru, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto City
- Closed: Irregular
- Phone: 075-351-8518
- Hours: 12:00-15:00, 17:00-21:30
- Official website
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Kibune Area for Kawadoko
Ryokan Hirobun
source：Official website
Ryokan Hirobun's Kawadoko is located at the uppermost part of the Kibune River, offering a close-up view of the powerful stream. The inn also offers accommodation, allowing guests to enjoy meals in yukata or kimono. It's open from May to the end of September.
The menu features Kawadoko Kaiseki using Kyoto ingredients (10,890 yen, 14,520 yen, 18,150 yen), beef shabu-shabu (10,890 yen), beef sukiyaki (10,890 yen), and Hirobun's summer specialty, nagashi somen (cold noodles that flow down a bamboo flume with water, caught with chopsticks).
The popular nagashi somen cannot be reserved and requires queuing on the day. I arrived early in the morning to experience it. The smooth, refreshing somen is perfect for hot summer days when appetites tend to wane. Although there was a wait, it was worth it for this uniquely elegant experience.
<Store Information>
- Address: 87 Kurama Kibune-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto City
- Closed: Open all year round
- Phone: 075-741-2147
- Hours: 11:30-19:00
- Official website
Kibune-so
source：Official website
Kibune-so's Kawadoko is characterized by its floor set directly above the river, offering a close proximity to the water. A two-tiered waterfall spreads out before you, allowing you to enjoy your meal while experiencing the dynamism of nature.
The menu includes Tamatebako Zen (6,000 yen), Seiryu Kaiseki (18,000 yen), Mini Kaiseki Lunch (9,000 yen), and children's meals (3,500 yen), all featuring seasonal ingredients. They also offer a curated alcohol selection, including not only sake and shochu but also an extensive wine list paired with the dishes.
I ordered the recommended Seiryu Kaiseki, and was particularly impressed by the decorative platter "Stone Garden," arranged to look like ayu fish swimming. The Kibune River flow depicted in salt and the small ayu were so artistic that it almost felt too beautiful to eat.
<Store Information>
- Address: 50 Kurama Kibune-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto City
- Closed: Irregular
- Phone: 075-741-2222
- Hours: 11:00-21:30
- Official website
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Takao Area for Kawadoko
Kyoto Takao Kinsuitei
source： Official website
At Takao Kinsuitei's Kawadoko, you can enjoy firefly viewing for about a month from around June 10th, along with the gentle murmur of the Kiyotaki River. Dining while watching fireflies gently illuminating the darkness is a special experience unique to Takao, surrounded by nature. It's open from May 1st to the end of September.
There are three menu options:
- Seasonal Bento (with grilled ayu, 5,505 yen)
- Noryo Kaiseki Lunch (with grilled ayu, 8,800 yen / with hamo shabu and grilled ayu, 12,100 yen)
- Noryo Kaiseki (with seasonal delicacies, hamo shabu, and grilled ayu, 12,100 yen / with hamo shabu, hamo shabu, and grilled ayu, 16,500 yen)
I ordered the Noryo Kaiseki and was impressed by the healthy impression given by the abundant use of Kyoto vegetables. The lineup of Kyoto-specific ingredients like seasonal delicacies, hamo shabu, and grilled ayu allowed me to fully enjoy the taste of Kyoto.
<Store Information>
- Address: 40 Umegahata-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto City
- Closed: Irregular
- Phone: 075-212-7829
- Hours: 11:30-15:00, 17:30-21:30
- Official website
Kyoto Takao Momijiya
source： Official website
Momijiya's Kawadoko in Takao features seats extending over the Kiyotaki River, allowing diners to enjoy their meals right in front of nature. From early June to early July, firefly viewing is available, and there's also a service where you can meet maiko (apprentice geisha), which is popular among tourists. It's open from June 1st to September 22nd.
There are five menu options:
- Summer Kitayama [Bamboo] (6,600 yen)
- Kawadoko Gozen (11,000 yen)
- Special Wagyu Shabu-shabu (14,300 yen)
- Cool Mountain Village [Moon] (14,300 yen)
- Cool Mountain Village [Snow] (16,830 yen)
I tried the Cool Mountain Village [Moon], which allowed me to enjoy a variety of small dishes including tempura, simmered dishes, and sashimi. It was a luxurious experience tasting various dishes.
The grilled ayu is particularly appealing, with a performance where it's cooked over charcoal right in front of the Kawadoko. Freshly grilled, it was the most delicious ayu I've ever tasted.
<Store Information>
- Address: Umegahata Nishinohata-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto City
- Closed: Open all year round
- Phone: 075-871-1005
- Hours: 11:00-15:00, 18:00-21:00
- Official website
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