The Perfect Guide to Kyoto's Traditional Ryoutei Culture
When you think of Kyoto, temples, shrines, and the historic cityscape might come to mind. However, Kyoto's charm isn't limited to just that. If you visit Kyoto, I highly recommend experiencing the ryoutei culture at least once.
Ryoutei are traditional high-end Japanese restaurants. Among them, Kyoto is the center of ryoutei culture, with numerous long-established ryoutei lining the streets.
I spent my graduate school days in Kyoto and visited a ryoutei to celebrate my graduation. I was amazed by the exquisite dishes made with seasonal ingredients, and dining in an old traditional house with the staff's hospitality was a special experience that went beyond just "eating."
While ryoutei are certainly not cheap, they're guaranteed to create unforgettable memories. In this guide, I'll introduce you to the basics of Kyoto's ryoutei and recommend some actual ryoutei in Kyoto.
Moreover, while it's true that making reservations at ryoutei can be challenging for foreign tourists, this article will also introduce tours that allow you to enjoy the ryoutei culture, so please use them to fully experience it!
What is a Ryoutei?
A ryoutei is a traditional high-end restaurant in Kyoto. Its origins can be traced back to the teahouses of pleasure quarters, and it has evolved as a high-end restaurant since the Meiji era. Ryoutei have developed uniquely while being closely related to the culture of geisha and maiko.
There are many ryoutei in Kyoto, serving Kyoto cuisine and kaiseki meals. Many of them are characterized by old buildings and Japanese gardens.
Ryoutei are often used for business entertainment, banquets, and celebrations, and one of their great attractions is the performance of arts by geisha and maiko.
When I visited a ryoutei, I enjoyed seasonal Kyoto cuisine while overlooking a beautiful Japanese garden. I remember being moved not only by the taste of the food but also by its visual beauty.
The array of dishes, like works of art, is still etched in my memory. I realized that a ryoutei is a special space that delights not only the sense of taste but also the visual sense.
Why Are There So Many Ryoutei in Kyoto?
There's a historical background to why there are so many ryoutei in Kyoto. Visually beautiful cuisine developed within Kyoto's long aristocratic culture. Also, the "tea ceremony" originated in Kyoto, and delicate cuisine that complements it also developed.
Kyoto has prospered as Japan's capital for over 1000 years and is a city with a spirit of "preserving traditional culture." As a result, places where you can enjoy court cuisine and tea ceremony cuisine from the old days have led to the current "ryoutei."
Walking through Kyoto, you can't help but feel the presence of ryoutei. I think the sight of ryoutei quietly standing in the atmospheric city is a unique charm of Kyoto. The abundance of ryoutei in Kyoto is a crystallization of the culture this city has cultivated over many years.
How to Make Reservations at Ryoutei
Reservations at ryoutei are generally made by phone. This can be quite challenging for foreigners. Especially for ryoutei where you can meet maiko, I recommend using the tours I'll introduce later.
Prices and Budget
Typically, dinner courses at ryoutei range from 20,000 to 50,000 yen per person, while lunch courses range from 10,000 to 20,000 yen per person. Drinks are usually charged separately, and there are additional fees if you request geisha or maiko performances. While it's expensive, I believe it's worth it for the special experience.
I think dining at a ryoutei is an experience that goes beyond just "eating." The taste of the food, of course, but also the beautiful presentation, the dishes, and above all, the unique atmosphere of the ryoutei. All of these combine to create special memories.
I think if you consider the high price as payment for this special experience, it becomes understandable.
Meals You Can Enjoy at Ryoutei
What you'll mainly find at Kyoto ryoutei are "Kyo ryouri (Kyoto cuisine)" and "kaiseki."
Kyo ryouri is special-occasion food distinct from the homely "obanzai," although many ingredients like Kyoto vegetables, tofu, and fish are common to both. On the other hand, kaiseki evolved from light meals enjoyed during tea ceremonies.
Both use seasonal ingredients and employ simple cooking methods that bring out the natural flavors of the ingredients. The presentation and dishes also express seasonality, with delicate seasoning that emphasizes in-mouth flavor balancing and elegant tastes based on dashi stock.
Services and Experiences at Ryoutei
You can have unique experiences at ryoutei that are different from other restaurants.
The Spirit of "Omotenashi"
Ryoutei are characterized by their emphasis on the spirit of hospitality. Careful attention is paid to each individual guest, and sometimes the chef will explain the meals. Experiencing Japan's "omotenashi" culture firsthand is a unique aspect of ryoutei.
When I visited a ryoutei, I was moved by the staff's warm hospitality. The grace in serving the dishes, the politeness in explaining the food. All of these were overflowing with the spirit of hospitality towards guests.
I realized that at ryoutei, you can experience not only the food but also this "omotenashi."
Unique Ryoutei Experiences
At ryoutei, you can enjoy Japanese culture with all five senses, including the appearance of traditional Japanese houses, garden viewing, seasonal decorations in the dining rooms, and tableware.
Another major attraction is the opportunity to experience traditional Japanese culture, such as interactions with maiko and geisha, viewing traditional performances, and learning how to appreciate Japanese sake and shochu.
Meeting maiko or geisha is a high hurdle even for Japanese people, but during my meal at a ryoutei, I miraculously had the chance to watch a maiko performance. I was moved by the precious experience of seeing a traditional dance up close in the tatami room of an old Japanese house.
The graceful movements of the maiko were breathtaking. I felt that being able to have such cultural experiences, not just the food, is what makes ryoutei unique.
Recommended Ryoutei in Kyoto
Here, I'll introduce four ryoutei in Kyoto that I recommend. Some of these can be booked online, so please try to make a reservation early.
Yugyoan Main Shop
Source: Tabelog by Yugyoan
Yugyoan Main Shop is a ryoutei where you can enjoy authentic Kyoto cuisine. While dinner requires a budget of 20,000-30,000 yen, their popular lunch is available for 8,000 yen.
What's great is that you can make online reservations in English from their official website, making it easy for foreigners to use. I recommend making reservations a month in advance or earlier.
<Store Information>
Address: 30-4 Nanzenji Shimokawaracho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 606-8434
Closed: Mondays
Phone: 075-762-1101
Hours: 11:30 AM–10 PM
Website: https://www.yugyoan.co.jp/en/
Ryoutei Rangetsu
Source: Tabelog by Ozawasan
Ryoutei Rangetsu is where you can casually enjoy the ryoutei atmosphere in the popular tourist area of Arashiyama. The attraction is that you can enjoy various lunch menus for 4,000-6,000 yen per person.
You need to be careful about their irregular holidays, but depending on your seat, you can enjoy beautiful views from the window.
While it might be hard to get in when it's crowded, it's nice that you can use it without a reservation. However, I recommend making a reservation online in English.
<Store Information>
Address: 7 Sagatenryuji Susukinobabacho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto 616-8385
Closed: Irregular
Phone: 075-865-2000
Hours: 11:30 AM–3 PM
Website: https://rangetsu.jp/
Yorozu-Enraku
Source: Tabelog by Yorozu-Enraku)
Yorozu-Enraku is a ryoutei used by Kyoto locals. The charm is that you can enjoy the atmosphere of a 120-year-old Kyoto-specific house. While you can call for maiko, it might be challenging for foreigners, so please try using the tours I'll introduce later.
<Store Information>
Address: 570-143 Gionmachi Minamigawa, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0074
Closed: Sundays, Mondays
Phone: 075-533-1511
Hours: 5 PM–11 PM
Website: http://www.zuzu.jp/
Kichisen
Source: Tabelog by Kichisen
Kichisen is a ryoutei that serves "kaiseki," a traditional cuisine served at tea ceremonies.
It's a famous restaurant that even earned 3 Michelin stars in 2014. While you need to make a reservation through your hotel and the price is on the higher side, I recommend it if you want to taste authentic "kaiseki" (traditional cuisine served at tea ceremonies).
<Store Information>
Address: 5 Shimogamo Tadasu no Mori (Morimotocho), Sakyo Ward, Kyoto 606-0805
Closed: Irregular
Phone: 075-711-6121
Hours: 12 PM–2:30 PM, 6 PM–10 PM
Website: https://kichisen-kyoto.com/en/
Recommended Tours for Enjoying Ryoutei
Many ryoutei have high reservation hurdles, and it can be difficult for foreigners to make reservations, especially at places that are not touristy and are enjoyed by locals. In such cases, I recommend using tours.
Recommended Tour 1: "Dinner with Maiko in a Traditional Kyoto Style Restaurant Tour" by Magical Trip
This is a ryoutei tour offered by us at Magical Trip.
You can explore the Gion area with a local guide, and then enjoy a full-course dinner and ozashiki asobi (entertainment) with a maiko at a traditional Kyoto restaurant. At the end of the tour, you can take a photo with the maiko.
As it's quite challenging to meet a maiko on your own, I can easily recommend this tour. The price is about 274 USD per person. I can confidently recommend this tour as one where you can fully experience the culture of Kyoto and the charm of ryoutei.
Click here for more details: Dinner with Maiko in a Traditional Kyoto Style Restaurant Tour
Recommended Tour 2: "Meet a Geisha in Kyoto: Exclusive Geisha Show in Gion" by Japan Wonder Travel
Source: Japan Wonder Travel
This is a tour that focuses on a maiko show, which is one aspect of ryoutei culture. Light meals are served, but the content is tourist-oriented, focusing on the maiko performance rather than dining and drinking. The price is about 20,000 yen per person in Japanese yen.
I recommend this tour for those who want to casually enjoy the maiko culture rather than the food and drinks of ryoutei culture. It should be a precious opportunity to experience Kyoto's traditional performing arts.
Click here for more details: Meet a Geisha in Kyoto: Exclusive Geisha Show in Gion
Frequently Asked Questions About Ryoutei
Lastly, I'll answer questions that are often asked by foreigners about ryoutei.
What Should I Wear to a Ryoutei?
For ryoutei, clothing that's not too casual is safe. For men, I recommend a jacket and slacks. For women, a dress or a blouse with a skirt is recommended. Wearing a kimono is also welcomed.
As many places require you to take off your shoes, socks are a must-have item.
Do They Speak English at Ryoutei?
While some places have staff who can speak English, it's not guaranteed. I recommend checking if English support is available when making a reservation.
It's also important to greet and express your thoughts in simple Japanese. Communication with gestures is possible.
Is It OK to Take Photos at Ryoutei?
Many places prohibit photography inside. It's good manners to ask for permission before taking pictures of the food. Be careful as photos of maiko and geisha are often not allowed.
Can I Visit a Ryoutei with Children?
Generally, most ryoutei are adult-oriented establishments and the atmosphere is not suitable for children. Most places don't have facilities or menus for children.
It's better to refrain from bringing infants and toddlers. I recommend checking with the establishment in advance if it's possible to visit with children.
Is Tipping Necessary?
Tipping is not necessary at ryoutei in Kyoto. In fact, offering a tip might confuse the staff. Adding words of gratitude for the highest level of hospitality is the best way to show appreciation.
I've introduced Kyoto's ryoutei culture in detail above. Ryoutei are special spaces where Japanese food culture and the spirit of "omotenashi" are condensed. You can have a valuable experience of encountering the old, good culture of Japan while enjoying Kyoto cuisine and kaiseki meals.
Interaction with maiko is also one of the great attractions of ryoutei culture. While making reservations on your own might be challenging, you should be able to have this precious experience by using tours.
When you visit Kyoto, why not try enjoying seasonal delicious cuisine in a space where you can feel the history, while experiencing the spirit of "omotenashi"?