The Ultimate Guide to Pontocho: Kyoto's Most Enchanting Alley
Pontocho in Kyoto holds a special place in my memories. When I lived in Kyoto, I often visited Pontocho, captivated by its atmospheric scenery and delicious food.
Walking down the stone-paved alley lined with old machiya houses feels like stepping back in time. During the day, it's enveloped in a quiet, nostalgic atmosphere, while at night, the glow of lanterns creates a fantastical world. Perhaps the charm of Pontocho lies in enjoying these changing expressions.
My favorite experience is savoring cuisine on the riverside terrace seats called "kawayuka" during summer evenings. The blissful moments of tasting delicate flavors using Kyoto's unique ingredients while listening to the murmur of the river are still vivid in my memory.
Pontocho is also dotted with high-end dining experiences like ryotei and upscale kappo restaurants. With the guidance of local friends, I had the opportunity to visit some ryotei that are usually challenging to enter.
The essence of Kyoto cuisine I tasted there was truly artistic and became a lifelong memory.
I wrote this guide to help you feel the charm of Pontocho as I did. I want to convey all the highlights, gourmet spots, and points to note when exploring Pontocho, weaving in not just a tourist's perspective but also the viewpoint of a local who deeply loves Pontocho.
While Pontocho is one of Kyoto's mainstream tourist spots, I believe it's essential to have a bit of an insider's perspective to truly appreciate its value. I hope you'll use this guide to fully experience the charm of Pontocho!
If you are looking for Comprehensive Kyoto Guide, check the article below! I summarized how and where you can enjoy different areas of Kyoto as much as possible.
Takashi Nakadomari
Table of Contents
・What is Pontocho
・Access to Pontocho
・Highlights of Pontocho
・Gourmet Experiences in Pontocho
・Etiquette and Points to Note in Pontocho
・Spots to Visit Along with Pontocho
・Frequently Asked Questions about Pontocho
What is Pontocho
Let me first tell you what kind of place Pontocho is.
Pontocho is a historic street located in the heart of Kyoto, along the Kamogawa River. The culture of geisha and maiko, which has continued since the Edo period, still thrives here, creating a scenic landscape with old machiya houses lining the street.
At night, lanterns are lit, enveloping the area in a fantastical atmosphere. Recently, it has become more of a gourmet spot with various restaurants that let you experience Kyoto, rather than just a geisha and maiko district.
However, even with these changes, Pontocho remains a special place that vividly reflects Kyoto's history and culture. As soon as you step in, it's like traveling back in time to a different world. I believe this extraordinary charm is Pontocho's greatest appeal.
Access to Pontocho
Now, how do you get to Pontocho? Let me introduce you to the access methods.
The most convenient way to reach Pontocho is by train. If you're taking the Keihan Electric Railway, you can get off at either "Gion-Shijo Station" or "Sanjo Station." If you're using the Hankyu Railway, get off at "Kawaramachi Station." From any of these stations, it's about a 5 to 10-minute walk to Pontocho.
If you're coming from Kyoto Station, I recommend taking the Karasuma Line subway to "Shijo Station," then transferring to the Hankyu Railway and heading to "Kawaramachi Station."
Highlights of Pontocho
Now, let's introduce the highlights of Pontocho.
Exploring the Alleys
To fully appreciate the charm of Pontocho, strolling through these stone-paved alleys is a must. The atmospheric scenery with old houses and ryotei lining up feels like you've time-slipped back to the Edo period.
During the day, it's enveloped in a quiet, nostalgic atmosphere, but at night, the lit-up Pontocho presents a fantastical landscape. As it's conveniently located as a base for Kyoto sightseeing, I encourage you to explore Pontocho both during the day and at night to experience its dual faces.
Enjoying Meals
Another significant appeal of Pontocho is the opportunity to enjoy delicious meals. Scattered throughout are ryotei, which are also venues for maiko and geisha activities, and kappo restaurants loved by locals, where you can savor Kyoto cuisine.
However, it's true that many of these ryotei and high-end kappo restaurants require reservations and can be challenging for foreigners to access. But don't worry!
Recently, more casual dining establishments have been increasing, so I recommend trying these places. What's particularly delightful is that Pontocho has many sushi restaurants, allowing you to casually enjoy high-quality sushi with a Kyoto flair.
Can You Dine on Riverside Terrace Seats?
The terrace seats you see along the Kamogawa River mostly belong to Pontocho restaurants. These seats are called "kawayuka" and are a summer tradition in Kyoto.
They're usually available from around May to September, but many restaurants require reservations, and some limit the stay duration for kawayuka seats, so be careful.
Kappa Sushi Pontocho and Ponto, which I introduce in this article, offer kawayuka seats without reservations. However, keep in mind that as they're popular restaurants, you might have to wait for a table.
Gourmet Experiences in Pontocho
Pontocho is primarily a nighttime district. That's why there are many izakaya-style restaurants where you can enjoy alcohol.
You'll have more options if you visit during dinner time rather than lunch time. Here, I'll introduce five recommended restaurants in Pontocho that are easy for travelers to enter.
5 Pontocho Restaurants Accessible to Travelers
Yoshino
Source: Tabelog by Yoshino
"Yoshino" is a sophisticated sushi restaurant in Pontocho. The sushi made with fresh seafood is substantial and absolutely delicious.
The budget is around 5,000 to 6,000 yen per person for lunch, and 10,000 to 20,000 yen for dinner. It's a place where you can have a somewhat luxurious dining experience.
What's great is that you can enter without a reservation. Despite being a high-end restaurant, you can enjoy sushi in a relaxed atmosphere. Note that lunch is only available on weekends.
<Store Information>
Address: Pontocho Kuro BAR, 122-5 Ishiyacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8002
Closed: Wednesdays
Phone: 075-746-3061
Hours: 5 PM–10 PM
Hours (Saturdays, Sundays): 11:30 AM–2 PM, 5 PM–10 PM
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/kyoto.sushi.yoshino/
Kappa Sushi Pontocho
Source: Tabelog by Kappa Sushi Pontocho
When you hear "Kappa Sushi," you might strongly imagine conveyor belt sushi, but in Pontocho, there's "Kappa Sushi Pontocho" which offers a menu that's a cut above the usual Kappa Sushi.
It's reputed to offer Pontocho-exclusive, high-quality sushi that can't be tasted at other branches. During summer, you can also use the terrace seats overlooking the Kamogawa River, enjoying both the scenery and the meal.
The budget is about 4,000 to 6,000 yen per person. No reservation is required, so it's nice that you can casually drop by while exploring Pontocho. It's also popular among locals as a place to enjoy delicious sushi at reasonable prices. Note that lunch service is only available on weekends.
<Store Information>
Address: Shiori Building 1F, 160 Matsumotocho, Pontocho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8013
Closed: None
Phone: 075-746-3061
Hours: 5 PM–11 PM
Hours (Saturdays, Sundays): 12 PM–3 PM, 5 PM–11 PM
Website: https://kappasushi.gorp.jp/
Ponto
Source: Tabelog by PC-Mike
If you're looking for an izakaya in Pontocho where you can experience kawayuka and enjoy Kyoto cuisine at reasonable prices, I recommend "Ponto".
You can use this place without a reservation, and recently, it seems the number of foreign customers has been increasing. The staff are used to dealing with foreigners, so you don't need to worry about language barriers.
You can enjoy the atmosphere of Pontocho and delicious food for about 3,000 to 4,000 yen per person. I encourage you to drop by during your sightseeing tour.
<Store Information>
Address: 232-13 Nabeyacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8015
Closed: None
Phone: 075-221-1537
Hours: 5 PM–11 PM
Website: https://tabelog.com/en/kyoto/A2601/A260201/26003450/
Kokoraya Pontocho
Source: Tabelog by SOHE
If you're looking for a kappo restaurant in Pontocho that you can casually visit, I recommend "Kokoraya Pontocho". This restaurant prides itself on its selection of "obanzai," traditional Kyoto home-style dishes, and the pairing of these obanzai with sake and other alcoholic beverages is exquisite.
The interior has a Kyoto-style atmospheric appearance, where time flows leisurely. The budget is about 7,000 to 8,000 yen per person, offering a somewhat luxurious dining experience. If you're seeking a high-quality taste typical of Pontocho, I encourage you to visit.
<Store Information>
Address: House number 51, 209-12, Nabeyacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto 604-8015
Closed: Irregular
Phone: 075-241-3933
Hours: 5 PM–10 PM
Website: https://tabelog.com/en/kyoto/A2601/A260202/26014324/
Sushitetsu Pontocho
Source: Tabelog by みつ
Although it's a chain sushi restaurant, "Sushitetsu Pontocho" is reputed for offering delicious sushi at reasonable prices. It's the most affordable place to enjoy sushi in Pontocho.
Surprisingly, a single plate of sushi (2 pieces) costs around 250 yen, offering excellent value for money. Moreover, the fish is directly sourced from Tsukiji, the famous fish market in Tokyo, ensuring high freshness. You can enjoy satisfying sushi for about 2,000 to 3,000 yen per person.
<Store Information>
Address: Karafuneya Pontocho Building 1F, Sanjo-dori, Pontocho-sagaru, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8002
Closed: Wednesdays
Phone: 075-257-1285
Hours: 5 PM–10:30 PM
Hours (Saturdays, Sundays): 12 PM–2 PM, 5 PM–10:30 PM
Website: https://sushitetsu.owst.jp/
Ryotei and High-End Kappo Restaurants
In Pontocho, there are also many high-end restaurants used for special occasions. Ryotei and kappo restaurants might seem intimidating not only for foreigners but also for Japanese people.
Indeed, most of these places require reservations and can't be entered without one. Many only accept phone reservations, making it difficult to actually use them.
However, if you have a local friend, I highly recommend going together. It's a chance to experience the ryotei culture of Pontocho and the highest-grade Kyoto cuisine.
Recently, the number of restaurants that accept online reservations has been increasing, so I'll introduce some of these places here as well.
Pontocho Fujita
Source: Tabelog by Ponotcho Fujita
"Pontocho Fujita" is a high-end ryotei where you can taste traditional Kyoto cuisine. The budget is a bit high at 10,000 to 20,000 yen per person, but it's popular among locals as well for offering a high-quality dining experience that matches the price.
Lunch is relatively reasonable at about 10,000 yen per person, and you can still enjoy authentic Kyoto cuisine, which is a pleasant point. It's appealing that it accepts online reservations, making it easy for foreigners to use. I encourage you to visit for a special memory in Pontocho.
<Store Information>
Address: 179-2 Zaimokucho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8017
Closed: Mondays, Tuesdays
Phone: 075-255-0500
Hours: 11:30 AM–2 PM, 5:30 PM–9:30 PM
Hours (Fridays): 5:30 PM–9:30 PM
Website: https://www.tablecheck.com/en/pontocho-fujita
Yoshiya
Source: Tabelog by hroh
"Yoshiya" is a high-end kappo restaurant known for its exquisite dishes using Kyoto ingredients. With over 60 years of history, this restaurant is renowned for offering the essence of Kyoto cuisine.
Reservations are only accepted by phone, and it often gets fully booked, which can be a drawback in terms of reservation difficulty. However, its high level of satisfaction is well-established.
The budget is about 15,000 yen per person, which is not cheap, but I think it's worth the value. If you have a local friend, I suggest asking them to make a reservation and spending a special evening here.
<Store Information>
Address: 188 Zaimokucho, Pontocho-dori, Sanjo-sagaru, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto 604-8017
Closed: Mondays
Phone: 075-221-5115
Hours: 5 PM–11 PM
Website: https://tabelog.com/en/kyoto/A2601/A260202/26000701/
Fumiya
Source: Tabelog by Fumiya
"Fumiya" is a ryotei that offers "kawayuka," a summer tradition. It's a luxurious restaurant where you can savor Kyoto cuisine that changes with the seasons while listening to the murmur of the Kamogawa River.
Lunch ranges from 5,000 to 8,000 yen, and dinner is around 10,000 yen. This is a relatively reasonable price range for a ryotei. Reservations are essential, but if you have a local friend, I highly recommend going together.
The kawayuka experience in summer is especially exceptional. You'll be able to fully enjoy the unique atmosphere and flavors of Kyoto.
<Store Information>
Address: Pontocho Kaburenjo Theater, Minamigumi, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto 604-8003
Closed: None
Phone: 075-211-5054
Hours: 11:30 AM–10 PM
Hours (Fridays to Sundays): 11:30 AM–10:30 PM
Website: https://tabelog.com/en/kyoto/A2601/A260301/26002618/
If you are interested in Nighttime in Kyoto, check the article below! I summarized how and where you can enjoy Nighttime in Kyoto as much as possible.
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Etiquette and Points to Note in Pontocho
There are several points to be aware of and manners to observe when visiting Pontocho. Here, I'll share three important points to keep in mind when visiting Pontocho.
Many Shops Close Early in the Evening
In the past, many shops in Pontocho were open until midnight. However, due to the impact of COVID-19, operating hours have been shortened, and now many shops close around 10 PM.
While Pontocho has a strong image as a nighttime district, I recommend visiting earlier if you want to enjoy a meal. Considering the time you might spend waiting in line, it's best to arrive around 5:30 PM to 6 PM. If you go too late, you might find that the restaurant you were hoping to visit has already closed.
Don't Take Photos of Geisha or Maiko
While walking through Pontocho, you might catch a glimpse of geisha or maiko. However, it's not okay to call out to them or take their photos.
This is because they are on their way to work. In other words, you would be interfering with their work, so please refrain from taking photos.
Leave Large Luggage in Coin Lockers or at Your Hotel
Pontocho is characterized by narrow, stone-paved alleys. With many people walking around, I don't recommend walking with large suitcases.
Also, many of the restaurants in Pontocho are small, making it difficult to bring in large luggage. It's best to leave your luggage in coin lockers at the station or at your hotel and explore Pontocho unencumbered.
Spots to Visit Along with Pontocho
Here are four spots I highly recommend visiting before or after your Pontocho tour. By visiting these places along with Pontocho, your Kyoto sightseeing experience will be even more fulfilling.
Gion Hanamikoji
"Gion Hanamikoji," located right next to Pontocho, is known as one of Kyoto's premier geisha districts. Historic tea houses and ryotei line the street, and if you're lucky, you might see maiko or geiko, but as with Pontocho, please don't take their photos.
The stone-paved alley is full of atmosphere, and I recommend exploring it along with Pontocho. However, be aware that photography is prohibited in some areas recently.
If you are interested in Gion Hanamikoji, check the article below! I summarized in more details and how I felt there.
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Yasaka Shrine
"Yasaka Shrine" is famous for the Gion Festival, a summer tradition in Kyoto. The beautiful and majestic shrine buildings are impressive. At night, they are illuminated, creating a fantastical atmosphere different from daytime.
It's about a 5 to 10-minute walk from Pontocho, so why not stop by during your stroll?
Kiyomizu-dera Temple
Kiyomizu-dera Temple is a classic among Kyoto's sightseeing spots. Its beautiful architecture and the panoramic view of Kyoto city from the temple can truly be called a symbol of Kyoto.
The view from the main hall is unparalleled in Kyoto. The approach to the temple is lined with charming souvenir shops and street food stalls. It's about a 20-minute walk from Pontocho, so why not add it to your exploration route?
If you are interested in Kiyomizu-dera Temple, check the article below! I summarized in more details and how I felt there.
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Heian Shrine
"Heian Shrine," which symbolizes the history and culture of Kyoto, is also easily accessible from Pontocho. You can reach it in about a 20-minute walk.
This shrine, with its iconic large vermilion torii gate, is a spot where you can strongly feel the atmosphere of the ancient capital of Kyoto. The vast shrine gardens are filled with flowers blooming in every season, and just taking a stroll can make you feel refreshed.
Heian Shrine offers a majestic atmosphere different from Pontocho. I highly recommend visiting.
Frequently Asked Questions about Pontocho
Finally, I'll answer some common questions about visiting Pontocho.
What's the Best Time to Explore Pontocho?
Pontocho shows various expressions throughout the day. Early morning is quiet with few people, perfect for taking photos. During the day, you can enjoy a leisurely stroll in a calm atmosphere.
And from evening to night, lights illuminate the street, creating a fantastical scenery. My recommendation is twilight. The soft light just before the sun sets illuminating Pontocho's townscape is truly beautiful. I encourage you to experience the different faces of the street at various times of the day.
Can I Rent a Kimono?
Yes, there are many kimono rental shops around Pontocho. They offer comprehensive services including dressing and hair styling, so even first-timers can use them with peace of mind.
It's popular for couples or friends to explore Pontocho in kimono. Walking through the streets in traditional attire that perfectly suits the ancient capital of Kyoto will surely make you feel like you've traveled back in time. I encourage you to give it a try!
Website: https://ewha-yifu.com/shops/kyoto-area/gion/
In this article, I've shared the charms of Pontocho, which is packed with the allure of Kyoto. The atmospheric townscape, delicious gourmet experiences, and unique culture - Pontocho truly encapsulates the essence of Kyoto.
But the real charm of Pontocho is best felt by actually visiting. Using this guide as a reference, I hope you'll confirm the wonders of Pontocho with your own eyes!
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