Unagi Kappo Izuei in Ueno Park! Experience a Traditional Japanese Restaurant Amidst Nature
Ueno is a neighborhood in Taito-ku famous for its zoo, art museums, nature-rich park, and the vibrant dining district under the elevated train tracks. With excellent accessibility from central Tokyo areas like Tokyo Station and Shinagawa, and being a Shinkansen stop, it's an ideal tourist destination.
Known as "Shitamachi" (downtown), the area is popular for its retro atmosphere and is often visited along with Asakusa by tourists. Ueno Zoo, the National Museum, and Ameyoko shopping street are particularly famous spots that bustle daily with tourists and locals alike.
Ueno is also an area where many skilled restaurants and historic eateries congregate. It's particularly known for "tonkatsu" (which originated in Ueno) and restaurants serving traditional Japanese cuisine.
Today, we'll introduce Unagi Kappo Izuei, a restaurant specializing in unagi (eel) cuisine, a traditional Japanese delicacy. Here, you can enjoy exquisite Japanese cuisine while taking in the natural beauty of Ueno Park.
Unagi Kappo Izuei: A Specialized Eel Restaurant in Ueno
Source: Official website
Unagi Kappo Izuei is an established eel restaurant with over 300 years of history. In the past, eels lived in Shinobazu Pond in Ueno Park, and many eel restaurants in the Ueno area competed against each other.
Today, Unagi Kappo Izuei sources its eels from Aichi Prefecture, a famous eel-producing region in Japan, while maintaining the traditional taste unchanged since its founding.
At Izuei, you can enjoy their signature "Unaju" (grilled eel over rice in a lacquered box) along with other Japanese dishes like tempura and sashimi, or opt for a full course meal that includes unaju. Savor traditional Japanese cuisine in a serene, quintessentially Japanese atmosphere.
What is "Kabayaki," the Traditional Japanese Eel Dish?
"Kabayaki" is a traditional Japanese eel dish. It's the most popular way to eat eel in Japan. The eel is split open, grilled once, then dipped in a sauce made of ingredients like sugar, soy sauce, and mirin (sweet rice wine), and grilled again. The combination of the savory sauce and the eel's natural flavor is addictively delicious. It pairs perfectly with rice and is typically served either in a lacquered box (called "unaju") or in a bowl (called "unadon").
The Unique Features of Unagi Kappo Izuei's Kabayaki
Source: Official website
Izuei's kabayaki follows the "Edomae" (Tokyo) style. The eel is split down the back and skewered. After an initial grilling, the eel is steamed before being dipped in sauce, resulting in a soft and fluffy texture. The steaming process also removes excess oil, creating a milder taste.
The sauce used at Izuei is made from just two ingredients: soy sauce and mirin. It's aged for two weeks to a month to develop a rich flavor. Without sugar, the sweetness is subtle, allowing you to truly taste the eel's natural umami.
Known as a Favorite of Famous Japanese Writer Mori Ogai
Unagi Kappo Izuei is known for being frequently visited by Mori Ogai, a famous Japanese writer who was active from the 1890s to 1910s. In an essay by his daughter, she mentions, "My father often took me there to eat eel."
Ueno was a gathering place for writers, and many besides Ogai were captivated by Izuei's eel. The restaurant's cuisine supported the creative activities of many writers.
Unagi Kappo Izuei Offers Four Course Menus
Matsu Course
Source: Tabelog
Izuei offers four course options: Matsu, Take, Ume, and Toku. All courses can be ordered for parties of two or more. The main differences between the courses are the size of the eel portion in the unaju and the number of accompanying dishes.
The Matsu Course, at 8,800 yen, is the most reasonably priced of the four. It includes an unaju with one and a half pieces of grilled eel, plus six Japanese dishes: two seasonal appetizers, sashimi, a simmered dish, and dessert. This course is perfect for those who want to casually enjoy authentic eel and Japanese cuisine at a reasonable price.
Take Course
Source: Tabelog
The Take Course, available for 11,000 yen, features an unaju with two pieces of grilled eel. Like the Matsu Course, it includes two appetizers, sashimi, a simmered dish, and dessert.
Additionally, it comes with a vinegared dish that serves as a palate cleanser, bringing the total to seven dishes. The carefully prepared vinegared vegetables or seafood stimulate the appetite, allowing you to enjoy the course to the fullest.
The Japanese dishes at Izuei change with the seasons. The appetizers and sashimi, made with fresh seasonal ingredients, are as impressive as the eel itself. Each dish is intricately prepared and beautifully presented.
Ume Course
Source: Hot Pepper Gourmet
The "Ume Course" features an unaju with two large pieces of grilled eel that seem to overflow from the lacquered box. This course is recommended for those who want to eat plenty of eel and fully experience various Japanese dishes.
At 16,500 yen, it's more expensive than other courses, but it includes nine dishes offering a rich variety of Japanese cuisine.
The course consists of two appetizers, sashimi, a hot soup, a seasonal specialty dish, a simmered dish, a vinegared dish, dessert, and unaju. It's a luxurious course that will leave both your stomach and heart fully satisfied.
This course is also perfect for dates. The high-quality dishes provide excellent conversation starters. Enjoy the Japanese cuisine and eel to your heart's content.
Special Course (Reservation Required)
Source: Tabelog
Unagi Kappo Izuei offers a "Special Course" that can only be ordered with a reservation. While it also includes nine dishes like the Ume Course, this course features top-tier Japanese cuisine prepared by dedicated chefs, including the head chef.
Often used for formal occasions like wedding receptions, this course offers a special dining experience. At 22,000 yen, it's quite expensive, but the combination of premium Japanese cuisine and eel provides an unparalleled luxury.
This course can be ordered for parties of two or more and requires a reservation by 5 PM the day before. Be sure to make a reservation if you want to experience this special course.
Private Tatami Rooms Available, Making it Comfortable for Families with Small Children
Source: Official website
Unagi Kappo Izuei has private tatami rooms, making it comfortable for families with small children. Even those with babies who can't sit up yet can dine worry-free.
The restaurant is also barrier-free, allowing entry with strollers.
Even at table seats, children's chairs are available, so families can dine without concern. They also provide children's tableware and offer a kids' menu, making it convenient for family dining.
Private rooms are available for 4 to 40 people and can be used for an additional 15% of the food and drink charges. As same-day private room availability is often limited, be sure to make a reservation if you want a private room.
Unagi Kappo Izuei Has Two Additional Locations in and Around Ueno Park
"Unagi Kappo Izuei Umekawa-tei" - Enjoy Nature Inside Ueno Park
Source: Official website
"Unagi Kappo Izuei Umekawa-tei" is located within Ueno Park. Situated next to Ueno Toshogu Shrine, it's surrounded by lush greenery. The restaurant's windows offer views of Ueno Park's nature, giving you the feeling of dining in a forest.
Among Izuei's three locations in Ueno, Umekawa-tei has an exceptional atmosphere. A large maple tree planted in front of the restaurant enhances the beauty of the four seasons. While beautiful year-round, it's particularly stunning during early summer's fresh greenery and autumn's red maple leaves.
- Address: 4-34 Ueno Park, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Hours: 11:00-15:00 / 17:00-21:00
- Closed: Mondays
- Phone: 03-5685-2011
Different Menu Options at Umekawa-tei
Umekawa-tei offers slightly different menu options from the main store. While the unaju menu remains the same, the course menus differ slightly, offering a unique experience. Course menus start from 12,100 yen. Enjoying Japanese cuisine amidst beautiful greenery is truly special.
Additionally, lunch menus are available on weekdays, allowing you to enjoy eel and Japanese cuisine at more affordable prices.
"Unagi Kappo Izuei Shinobazu-tei" - Situated by Shinobazu Pond
Source: Official website
As its name suggests, "Unagi Kappo Izuei Shinobazu-tei" is located right in front of Shinobazu Pond. Across the street, the pond stretches out as part of Ueno Park. While dining, you can enjoy seasonal views through the windows - cherry blossoms in spring, fresh greenery in early summer, lotus flowers in the pond during summer, and colorful foliage in autumn.
With easy access from the park and many tourists visiting, English menus are available. They offer the same menu as the main store, so this branch is recommended when you want to enjoy eel while exploring Shinobazu Pond.
- Address: 2-11-19 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Hours: Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday 11:00-14:00 / 17:00-21:00
Weekends and Holidays 11:00-21:00
- Closed: Wednesdays
- Phone: 03-3832-0785
Unagi Kappo Izuei Also Offers Takeout Options
Source: Rakuten Gnavi
You can enjoy Izuei's eel even at home with their takeout options. They offer two types: bottled tsukudani (eel simmered in soy sauce) perfect as a rice topping, and vacuum-packed grilled eel that tastes just like in the restaurant.
My personal recommendation is the tsukudani. Even a small amount on top of rice fills your mouth with the aroma of eel and sauce. It also pairs well with alcohol, so it's perfect for enjoying a drink back at your hotel.
You can also get unaju for takeout, making it an excellent souvenir option. They even offer domestic shipping within Japan, making it a wonderful gift for someone special.
Not Just Unagi Kappo Izuei! Three Michelin-Listed Restaurants to Enjoy in Ueno
Kaiseki Ikku (Japanese Cuisine)
Source: Official website
"Kaiseki Ikku" is a high-end kaiseki restaurant that has earned a Michelin star for three consecutive years. In its serene, quintessentially Japanese interior, you can enjoy blissful kaiseki cuisine.
The restaurant particularly specializes in "anago" (conger eel). You can enjoy anago prepared in various ways, from sashimi to tempura. Anago is similar to unagi but has a lighter, healthier taste, making it perfect for health-conscious diners.
Ikku is reservation-only, so be sure to book at least two days in advance.
<Basic Information>
- Address: 2-4-23 Ikenohata, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Hours: 12:00-15:30 / 17:00-22:00
- Closed: Irregular holidays
- Phone: 03-5685-0170
- Website: https://www.kaiseki-ikku.com/
Ponta Honke (Tonkatsu)
Source: Tabelog
Ueno is famous as the birthplace of "tonkatsu" (breaded pork cutlet) and is a fierce battleground for tonkatsu restaurants. Ponta Honke is the original tonkatsu restaurant in the area. Now a Michelin Bib Gourmand selection, they serve various Western-style dishes including tonkatsu, beef stew, and other fried foods.
Ponta Honke is particular about their meat, using only carefully selected pork loin. By frying slowly in homemade lard, they create tender and flavorful tonkatsu. Experience the same delicious taste that has remained unchanged since their founding in 1905.
<Basic Information>
- Address: 3-23-3 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Hours: Tuesday-Saturday & Day before holidays 11:00-14:00, 16:30-20:20 / Sundays & Holidays 11:00-14:00, 16:00-20:20
- Closed: Mondays (If Monday is a holiday, closed the following day)
- Phone: 050-5492-8353
- Website: https://g608200.gorp.jp/
Tonpachitei (Tonkatsu)
Source: Tabelog
"Tonpachitei" is a tonkatsu specialty restaurant that has been selected for the Michelin Guide's Bib Gourmand for nine consecutive years since 2016. It's a homey restaurant run by a husband and wife, where the owner-chef, who trained abroad, creates exquisite tonkatsu.
By meticulously preparing each piece of meat, they achieve a higher quality final product. The fried tonkatsu is juicy, with a crispy coating that pairs perfectly with their fruity sauce.
This popular restaurant always has a line, and they close when sold out, so it's recommended to line up before opening time.
<Basic Information>
- Address: 4-3-4 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Hours: 11:30-14:30 (or until sold out)
- Closed: Mondays
- Phone: 03-3831-4209
- Website: https://gbb4200.gorp.jp/