Understanding "Kappo" in Kyoto: Differences Between Kappou and Ryotei

When visiting Kyoto, you might want to taste authentic Kyoto cuisine but feel that many restaurants are too formal and expensive.

In such cases, I recommend trying kappo. Kappo is a more casual dining establishment that offers delicate cuisine using seasonal ingredients unique to Kyoto, without being as formal as ryotei. The charm lies in being able to enjoy your meal in a relaxed atmosphere while chatting with the chef at the counter seats.

I lived in Kyoto for two years during my graduate studies, and during that time, I completely fell in love with the charm of kappo.

Although it was a bit expensive for a student, so I couldn't go frequently, when I sat at the counter seat, I could see the chef skillfully preparing dishes right in front of me, and I found myself mesmerized.

The finished dishes were simple yet flavorful, allowing me to fully enjoy the deliciousness of ingredients unique to Kyoto.

In this article, I'll explain the characteristics of kappo in Kyoto and the differences from ryotei. I'll also introduce a selection of kappo restaurants in Kyoto that I recommend for foreign tourists.

I'll answer common questions about average prices at kappo, English support, and dress code. When you visit Kyoto, I encourage you to try kappo where you can casually enjoy authentic Kyoto cuisine.

What is Kappo?

Source: Tabelog by da44e2

Kappo refers to restaurants where chefs cook and serve in front of customers, and they are common in Kyoto. In kappo, the focus is on simple dishes that bring out the flavors of seasonal ingredients.

One of the attractions is being able to enjoy conversation with the chef while dining at the counter seats. It's typically used by small groups, and most kappo restaurants mainly have counter seats, with few having private rooms or tables.

When I first experienced kappo in Kyoto, I felt a sense of freshness in the style of dining at the counter seat while conversing with the chef. Not only could I see the chef's techniques up close, but I could also deepen my knowledge about Kyoto's ingredients and cuisine, making it a very valuable experience.

The time spent talking with the chef while drinking felt like having a meal at a friend's house, and I could relax completely.

Differences from Ryotei

While both kappo and ryotei are traditional Kyoto restaurants, there are several differences.

Price Range

Ryotei are high-end restaurants mainly used for business entertainment and formal dinners. On the other hand, while kappo is more expensive than izakaya, it's often cheaper than ryotei. However, the differences are not always clear-cut, and there are "high-end kappo" that are close to ryotei.

The kappo I frequented as a student had reasonable prices, but the quality of the food was just as excellent as ryotei. I felt that the great thing about kappo was that I could enjoy authentic Kyoto cuisine even with a limited budget.

Cuisine

Ryotei have historically been influenced by tea ceremony and geisha culture, and are deeply connected to Kyoto's culture. Therefore, ryotei mainly serve formal kaiseki cuisine or special Kyoto dishes eaten on special occasions. In contrast, kappo often serves more common "obanzai" dishes.

I was always moved by the array of homely yet heartwarming dishes with kappo's home-style flavors. I think the charm of kappo is that you can easily enjoy the taste of Kyoto's home cooking.

Interior

Ryotei are characterized by attentive service from nakai (servers) and dining in tatami rooms. Many have private rooms or large halls and can accommodate groups. On the other hand, many kappo are simple restaurants with only counter seats, characterized by their proximity to the chef.

In a small kappo with only counter seats, I felt as if I was visiting the chef's private home. Because of the closeness to the chef, I could feel their love and dedication to the food, and spend a special time there.

Maiko and Geisha

Some ryotei in Kyoto allow you to call for maiko or geisha. However, this is not possible at kappo.

When I was living in Kyoto, I had the opportunity to see a maiko performance at a ryotei once. I was fascinated by the elegant gestures and beautiful kimono, feeling like I had touched the culture of old Kyoto.

On the other hand, while you can't meet maiko at kappo, the good thing is that you can use them casually and enjoy a relaxed atmosphere.

Recommended Kappo for Foreign Tourists in Kyoto

Here, I'll introduce three kappo restaurants in Kyoto that I recommend.

Kokoraya Pontocho

Source: Tabelog by SOHE

Kokoraya Pontocho can be easily used without reservations in Pontocho, a famous food district in Kyoto. It offers many traditional Kyoto home-style dishes called "obanzai".

The pairing of obanzai with sake and other alcoholic beverages is excellent. The budget is about 7,000-8,000 yen per person. It's located about a 5-minute walk from Hankyu Kawaramachi Station or Keihan Gion-Shijo Station.

<Store Information>
Address: House number 51, 209-12, Nabeyacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto 604-8015
Closed: Irregular 
Phone: 075-241-3933
Hours: 5 PM–10 PM
Website: https://tabelog.com/en/kyoto/A2601/A260202/26014324/

Mamehachi

Source: Tabelog by Mamehachi

Mamehachi, also located in Pontocho, is a kappo that specializes in obanzai dishes using tofu. They also offer obanzai lunch during the day, and it's nice that you can use it without a reservation.

As I'm a big fan of tofu, I was completely captivated by Mamehachi's tofu dishes.

<Store Information>
Address: 210-4 Nabeyacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8015
Closed: None  
Phone: 075-211-2469
Hours: 11:30 AM–3 PM, 5 PM–10 PM
Website: https://k127209.gorp.jp/

Ayatomi

Source: Tabelog by Kazucha

Ayatomi, located halfway between Hankyu Kawaramachi Station and Karasuma Station, is a kappo where you can enjoy mainly obanzai dishes.

The restaurant is relatively spacious for a kappo, allowing you to spend a relaxed time. The appeal is that you can taste seasonal dishes using ingredients unique to Kyoto.

<Store Information>
Address: 68 Shioyacho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto, 600-8052
Closed: Mondays
Phone: 050-546-24027 
Hours (Tuesdays to Thursdays): 6 PM–10:30 PM
Hours (Friday): 5:30 PM–10:30 PM 
Hours (Saturdays, Sundays): 5 PM–10:30 PM
Website: https://ayatomi-kyoto.foodre.jp/

Frequently Asked Questions About Kappo

Finally, I'll answer common questions that foreign visitors often have about kappo.

What's the Average Price at Kappo?

The average price at kappo ranges from 5,000 to 10,000 yen. However, high-end establishments may be more expensive. The kappo I frequented as a student was relatively reasonably priced. It was cheaper compared to ryotei, allowing me to casually enjoy Kyoto cuisine.

Is Communication in English Possible?

Many kappo in Pontocho, an area with many foreign tourists, can communicate in English, even if not fluently.

In other areas, English support might be difficult, but if you remember the word "Omakase," they will serve you the restaurant's recommended dishes.

What's the Dress Code for Kappo?

Many kappo have a relatively casual atmosphere, so jeans and a T-shirt are fine at most places. Many kappo also welcome guests in yukata or kimono, so I recommend this for those who want to experience the Kyoto atmosphere. I went to kappo in yukata a few times, and it was fun as it added to the atmosphere.

When you visit Kyoto, I encourage you to try authentic Kyoto cuisine at a kappo. The charm lies in being able to enjoy delicate dishes using seasonal ingredients in a relaxed atmosphere without formality.

If you enjoy obanzai and sake while watching the cooking process at the counter seat, you'll surely feel the depth of Kyoto's food culture. Using this article as a reference, I hope you find your favorite kappo in Kyoto!