Omoide Yokocho aka Piss Alley: A Nostalgic Journey Through Tokyo's Hidden Gourmet Alley w/map
Just a one-minute walk from the west exit of Shinjuku Station. As you pass through the bustling crowd, a different world with an atmosphere of old Tokyo unfolds. Omoide Yokocho is a retro drinking district familiar to Tokyo locals like myself.
The history of this narrow alley dates back to the black markets of the post-war era. The "Noren Street" that emerged in the late 1940s in Shinjuku, which had been reduced to ashes, was the beginning of today's Omoide Yokocho. While changing its appearance with the times, it has continued to attract people with its down-to-earth atmosphere and delicious food.
Even now, the small shops crammed together are full of vitality. Yakitori, motsuyaki, stewed dishes, eel... Whichever shop you enter, you can enjoy authentic flavors at reasonable prices.
Recently, it has become popular among foreign tourists as well, but there are a few things to note. Many shops don't have English menus, and most only accept cash. The cramped interiors might feel a bit uncomfortable.
But these "challenges" are part of Omoide Yokocho's unique charm. Here, you can experience a side of Tokyo that hasn't been touristified.
Enjoying a meal shoulder to shoulder with locals. Such an experience will surely add a special memory to your Tokyo trip.
Now, let me introduce you to the charms of Omoide Yokocho from a local's perspective!
If you want to know about nightlife in the entire Shinjuku area, check out the Shinjuku Nightlife Guide, and if you want tourist information for the entire Shinjuku area including daytime, please refer to the Shinjuku Guide.
Table of Contents
・The Charm of Omoide Yokocho
・Access to Omoide Yokocho
・Tips for Visiting Omoide Yokocho
・Q&A for Enjoying Omoide Yokocho
・Recommended Shops in Omoide Yokocho
・Recommended Tours for Exploring Omoide Yokocho
・Areas to Visit Along with Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku
The Charm of Omoide Yokocho
Omoide Yokocho is a place where nostalgia and vitality coexist, a step away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo. This narrow alley is packed with unique charms that can't be experienced elsewhere.
Retro Atmosphere
When you step into Omoide Yokocho, you're enveloped in a sense of having traveled back in time. The narrow alley with its strong post-war remnants and small shops crammed side by side. Signs and storefronts that haven't changed for decades create a uniquely nostalgic atmosphere.
What I particularly love is the appearance of Omoide Yokocho from dusk to night. The soft light of red lanterns illuminating the alley, the smoke from yakitori mixing with the lively voices of people. This unique atmosphere evokes the feeling of an old downtown area that's becoming rare in modern Tokyo.
Here, you'll see more office workers returning from work and regular customers than people walking with smartphones in hand. Looking at such scenes, I can't help but feel that interactions between people from the old days are still alive, as if defying the flow of time.
Affordable Prices
One of the charms of Omoide Yokocho is undoubtedly its affordable prices. Despite being in the center of Shinjuku, you can enjoy food and drinks here at surprisingly reasonable prices. I myself often use Omoide Yokocho as a place to casually drop by after work.
This area has long been beloved as a place of relaxation for office workers in the Shinjuku area since the post-war period. That history is still reflected in the affordable pricing today.
From my experience, 5000 yen is enough to enjoy a satisfying meal and drinks. This is remarkably cost-effective compared to other areas in Shinjuku.
Diverse Eateries
The charm of Omoide Yokocho also lies in its diversity. The shops lined up in the narrow alley each offer unique dishes and atmospheres. Yakitori, motsuyaki, eel, oden, ramen, sushi, and various other genres representing Japanese izakaya culture are side by side.
At the yakitori shop I frequently visit, the skewers carefully grilled over charcoal are exquisite. Also, depending on the season, there are shops where you can enjoy sashimi and simmered dishes using seasonal fish. At the eel shop, the aroma of grilled Kanto-style eel wafts through the air, whetting the appetite of passersby.
What's interesting is that there's a wide range of choices from long-established shops to new ones. At shops that have been around for decades, you can enjoy unchanged flavors and atmosphere. On the other hand, some recently opened shops offer creative dishes that add new elements to traditional cuisine.
This diversity makes Omoide Yokocho a place that never gets boring no matter how many times you visit. By entering a different shop each time, you can enjoy new discoveries and tastes. Even though I've been coming here for several years, I still find myself wondering, "Which shop should I go to today?"
Access to Omoide Yokocho
Omoide Yokocho is just a one-minute walk from the west exit of JR Shinjuku Station.
Let me share the route I always use. After exiting the west exit of JR Shinjuku Station, head to the right. You'll see an entrance to a large underground passage, but don't go through there. Keep walking on the sidewalk above ground. After a while, you'll see a small alley on your left. You should see a sign that says "Omoide Yokocho" at the entrance.
The entrance is smaller than you might expect, so it's a good idea to use a map app or ask people around you.
Tips for Visiting Omoide Yokocho
There are several tips to maximize your enjoyment of Omoide Yokocho. From my years of experience visiting this place, I'll share some tips that will be useful for foreign tourists.
Prepare Cash
In many shops in Omoide Yokocho, cash-only payment is common. Very few shops accept credit cards or electronic money. From my experience, having about 10,000 yen in cash per person is enough to enjoy fully.
In fact, when I visited with a friend, we brought about 20,000 yen for two people, and we had plenty left even after bar-hopping to three places. However, if you plan to drink a lot, it's safer to bring a bit more.
Don't Go in Large Groups
One of the charms of Omoide Yokocho is the intimate atmosphere created by its small shops. However, this also means it's not suitable for large groups. Many shops have basically narrow interiors, and it's not uncommon for shops to refuse groups of more than four people.
From my experience, groups of 2-3 people are the most enjoyable. With this number, you can enter most shops.
Once, I visited with a group of six people, but we ended up splitting into two groups and entering different shops. Afterwards, we met up in the alley and moved to the next shop, which was a bit inconvenient.
If you're visiting in a large group, be prepared to either find a shop that accepts reservations or split into smaller groups. Even so, you can still fully enjoy the atmosphere of Omoide Yokocho.
Smoking on the Street is Prohibited
In the entire Shinjuku ward, including Omoide Yokocho, smoking on the street is prohibited. In the past, I often saw people taking a smoke break in the alley, but such scenes have disappeared now.
Once, my friend carelessly tried to light a cigarette on the street and was warned by a passerby. Fortunately, it didn't turn into a big issue, but he said it was quite embarrassing.
This regulation creates a comfortable environment for non-smokers, but it might be a bit inconvenient for smokers.
However, I believe that following this rule leads to a good experience for everyone visiting Omoide Yokocho, as cigarette smoke in the narrow alley can be a nuisance to others.
Toilets are Shared Among Shops
The toilet situation in Omoide Yokocho might be a bit surprising for first-time visitors. Most shops don't have individual toilets; instead, there are shared toilets for all shops.
When I first visited, I was also confused by this system. I remember feeling a bit taken aback when I asked a staff member "Where's the toilet?" and was told "Outside."
My recommendation is to use the toilet frequently, before entering a shop or before moving to the next one. This habit is particularly important if you plan to drink alcohol.
I suggest acting with some leeway to avoid suddenly needing the toilet in the middle of enjoying your bar-hopping in Omoide Yokocho.
Q&A for Enjoying Omoide Yokocho
I've compiled answers to frequently asked questions about Omoide Yokocho. Based on my own experiences and conversations with local friends, I've tried to provide accurate and easy-to-understand answers.
Why is it Called "Piss Alley"?
The origin of the name "Piss Alley" is deeply rooted in the history of Omoide Yokocho. It's said that this nickname came about because in the immediate post-war period, there were very few toilets in this area, and drunk customers used the alley as a place to relieve themselves.
My grandfather, who used to drink in this area when he was young, said that finding a toilet was a struggle back then. He told me it wasn't uncommon to see people relieving themselves in the corners of alleys or behind buildings.
However, the situation has greatly improved now. Shared toilets have been installed, and hygiene has significantly improved. Every time I visit Omoide Yokocho, I feel that it maintains its old-fashioned atmosphere while achieving cleanliness and comfort.
However, local people don't particularly like the name "Piss Alley," so be careful when using it. We locals affectionately call it "Omoide Yokocho." When visiting as a tourist, it's more appropriate to use the official name "Omoide Yokocho."
What are the Recommended Foods?
There are many delicious foods in Omoide Yokocho, but here are some dishes I particularly recommend:
First, you can't miss the skewered dishes like yakitori and motsuyaki. These skewers, carefully grilled over charcoal, go perfectly with beer.
Next, I recommend grilled eel. There's a long-established eel restaurant in Omoide Yokocho, and their fluffy grilled eel is exquisite. You can enjoy the aroma of the sauce and the soft texture. It's a bit pricey, but I feel it's well worth it.
Oden and stewed dishes are also part of Omoide Yokocho's charm. The ingredients that have been simmered for a long time pair perfectly with sake. I especially recommend these in the cold season. The warm soup dishes will warm you up from the core.
Lastly, it might be surprising, but there's also a delicious sushi restaurant in Omoide Yokocho. Nigiri sushi made with fresh ingredients is a luxurious dish to enjoy in an izakaya atmosphere.
My personal food-hopping course is to start with a light drink and yakitori. Then enjoy main dishes like stewed dishes or sushi, and finish with eel. Eating in this order allows you to enjoy various flavors and gives a high level of satisfaction.
Is There English Support?
Omoide Yokocho is gradually becoming more tourist-friendly, and some shops have prepared English menus. However, not all shops are fully prepared for foreign tourists yet.
From my experience, newer shops run by younger owners seem to be more accommodating to foreign tourists.
Also, even without English menus, more shops are preparing menus with pictures. In these shops, you can order by pointing, so you'll feel less of a language barrier.
However, if you want to enjoy conversations with the shop owners or staff, you might still feel a language barrier. When I took my foreign friend, we could manage to order from the menu somehow, but I had to interpret for conversations with the shop owner.
A tip for finding shops with good English support is to check the menu near the entrance. If there's English text, they'll be able to accommodate you inside as well. Also, shops that attract many young customers tend to have better English support.
Is Omoide Yokocho Safe?
Omoide Yokocho can be said to be a relatively safe place even within Shinjuku's entertainment district. Compared to the surrounding Kabukicho area, it's significantly better in terms of safety.
I've been frequenting Omoide Yokocho for many years, but I've never felt in danger. Rather, the warm atmosphere created by local regular customers and shop owners gives a sense of security.
Even at night, there are many people around, and a bright atmosphere is maintained. The lights from the shops lined up in the alley and the voices of people coming and going create a safe environment. My female friends also visit alone sometimes, and they say they haven't felt any problems.
However, general precautions are necessary. Be careful with valuables, avoid walking alone late at night, and take basic safety measures. Also, lying down on the street due to excessive drinking is not welcomed in Omoide Yokocho either.
Is it Possible to Visit with Children?
Omoide Yokocho is basically an adult-oriented drinking district. Therefore, some caution is needed when visiting with children.
From my experience, there are some shops that can be entered for dining purposes during the daytime. For example, some shops can be used without problems with children during lunchtime. In fact, I've taken my nephew there for lunch before.
However, the situation changes at night. Many shops focus on serving alcohol, and the environment with cigarette smoke and noisy atmosphere may not be appropriate for children. Also, the narrow interiors and crowded alleys can be dangerous places for children.
Therefore, I recommend visiting Omoide Yokocho as an adult-oriented spot. If you want to enjoy traditional Japanese food culture with children, it's better to choose family-friendly restaurants around Shinjuku Station.
Personally, I recommend visiting without children to fully enjoy the atmosphere of Omoide Yokocho. Many shops don't have menus or facilities for children, so the ways to enjoy might be limited if you come with children.
Recommended Shops in Omoide Yokocho
There are many attractive shops in Omoide Yokocho, but I'll introduce a few that I particularly recommend. These shops are ones that I feel excel in terms of taste, atmosphere, and cost-performance based on my years of frequent visits.
Motsuyaki Ucchan
Source: Tabelog
"Motsuyaki Ucchan" is one of the most popular shops in Omoide Yokocho. Here, you can enjoy exquisite yakitori using fresh offal. Motsuyaki is a dish where beef or pork innards are skewered and grilled, representing Japanese izakaya culture.
I first visited this shop about 5 years ago, and I still can't forget the impact. The aroma of carefully grilled offal and the umami that spreads as you chew are exceptional.
Also, the motsuyaki here pairs perfectly with alcohol. Enjoying it with cold draft beer or hot sake doubles its deliciousness. My usual pattern is to first enjoy motsuyaki with beer, and finish with Japanese sake.
<Store Information>
Address: 1 Chome-2-7 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0023
Closed: None
Phone: 03-5909-5890
Hours: 4–11 PM
Website: https://kiwa-group.co.jp/uttyan_shinjuku/
Banshaku-ya
Source: Tablelog
"Banshaku-ya" is a casual izakaya in Omoide Yokocho. The reason I like this shop is its wide range of menu items.
The charm of "Banshaku-ya" lies in being able to easily enjoy various izakaya menus. From yakitori to fresh sashimi, it's a place where you can experience Japanese izakaya culture all at once.
My favorite is the sashimi platter using seasonal fish. The combination of the taste of fresh fish and the Japanese sake that accompanies it is exceptional.
<Store Information>
Address: 1 Chome-2-2 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0023
Closed: None
Phone: 03-3345-8399
Hours (Tuesdays to Fridays): 3–11 PM
Hours (Saturdays to Mondays): 12–11 PM
Website: https://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1304/A130401/13075631/
Sushi Tatsu
Source: Omoide Yokocho Official Website
"Sushi Tatsu" is the only sushi restaurant in Omoide Yokocho, which is rare. I feel that being able to enjoy not only beer and yakitori but also authentic sushi is one of the charms of Omoide Yokocho.
The reason I particularly like this place is that you can enjoy authentic sushi at reasonable prices. The nigiri sushi using fresh ingredients changes depending on the day's catch, but it never disappoints no matter when you go.
<Store Information>
Address: 1 Chome-2-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0023
Closed: None
Phone: 03-3342-0740
Hours: 5–11:30 PM
Website: https://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1304/A130401/13047204/
Kabuto
Source: Tabelog
"Kabuto" is one of the most historic shops in Omoide Yokocho, and its specialty is undoubtedly grilled eel.
Grilled eel is one of Japan's traditional dishes, but the eel at "Kabuto" is exceptional. The carefully grilled eel is crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, creating an exquisite taste combined with the aroma of the sauce.
What's particularly noteworthy is the menu item called "Ichitōri." It's a unique system that allows you to enjoy various parts and cooking methods of eel at once, and it's a must-order that lets you fully appreciate the charm of eel.
<Store Information>
Address: 1 Chome-2-11 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0023
Closed: Sundays
Phone: 03-3342-7671
Hours: 1–8 PM
Website: https://shinjuku-omoide.com/shop/kabuto
Saitama-ya
Source: Tabelog
"Saitama-ya" is one of the shops in Omoide Yokocho where you can strongly feel the retro atmosphere.
The charm of this shop lies in its motsuyaki and stewed dishes. The grilled dishes using fresh offal pair perfectly with beer.
On the other hand, the stewed dishes are also one of "Saitama-ya's" signature menu items. The offal that has been simmered for a long time is tender and creates an exquisite taste when combined with the rich soup. I can't forget the experience of warming up from the core with this stewed dish when I visited on a cold day.
<Store Information>
Address: 1 Chome-2-7 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0023
Closed: None
Phone: 03-3342-5525
Hours: 2–11 PM
Hours (Sundays): 3:30–11 PM
Website: https://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1304/A130401/13083564/dtlphotolst/3/smp2/
Recommended Tours for Exploring Omoide Yokocho
There are various ways to enjoy Omoide Yokocho, but participating in a guided tour is also recommended. Especially for first-time visitors or those who are not confident in Japanese, these tours can help you maximize the charm of Omoide Yokocho.
"Tokyo Bar Hopping Night Tour in Shinjuku" by Magical Trip
The "Tokyo Bar Hopping Night Tour in Shinjuku" is a 3.5-hour night tour provided by us at Magical Trip, exploring hidden izakayas and food stalls in Shinjuku. This tour is recommended for those who want to deeply experience the drinking districts of Shinjuku, including Omoide Yokocho.
You can visit three bars with a local guide and experience Japanese drinking culture at each shop. The guide explains everything in English, so you can enjoy without feeling a language barrier.
In terms of food, you can enjoy authentic Japanese izakaya cuisine such as yakitori, gyoza, and fried tofu.
Another advantage of this tour is that it's an all-inclusive package with drinks like sake and beer, and meals included. You can enjoy without worrying about additional fees, which is reassuring especially for budget-conscious travelers.
Click here for more details: Tokyo Bar Hopping Night Tour in Shinjuku
"Shinjuku Night Free Walking Tour" by Tokyo Localized
Source: Tokyo Localized
The "Shinjuku Night Free Walking Tour" is a 2-hour night walking tour provided by Tokyo Localized, exploring the entertainment districts of Shinjuku. This tour is recommended for those who want to experience a wide range of Shinjuku's nightlife, including Omoide Yokocho.
The tour visits famous spots in Shinjuku such as Kabukicho, Godzilla Road, and Omoide Yokocho. At each spot, the guide provides detailed explanations about the history and cultural background of the place.
This tour doesn't include food and drink costs, so it's particularly suitable for those who want to enjoy the atmosphere and culture of Shinjuku's night rather than the food.
The reason I particularly recommend this tour is that you can efficiently experience various aspects of Shinjuku's night in a short time. You can visit not only Omoide Yokocho but also other attractive spots in Shinjuku at once, gaining a broad understanding of Tokyo's night culture.
Click here for more details: Shinjuku Night Free Walking Tour
Areas to Visit Along with Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku
After fully enjoying the charm of Omoide Yokocho, how about exploring other areas of Shinjuku?
I particularly recommend the following two areas, which have unique atmospheres like Omoide Yokocho. By visiting these places, you can experience the diverse faces of Shinjuku.
Shinjuku Golden Gai
Shinjuku Golden Gai is a drinking district with a retro atmosphere similar to Omoide Yokocho. However, its atmosphere and scale are a bit different from Omoide Yokocho.
The characteristic of Golden Gai is the concentration of even smaller shops. I remember being overwhelmed by its unique landscape when I first visited here. Small two-story buildings line up in alleys that are like a maze, and almost all of them are bars.
The scale of the shops is even smaller than Omoide Yokocho, and it's not unusual to find shops that are full with just 5-6 people. However, this means you can enjoy a more intimate atmosphere with the shop owners and regular customers. I myself once hit it off with a customer sitting next to me by chance and ended up talking until late at night.
However, there are some points to be aware of. Some shops refuse entry to foreign tourists. This is to avoid troubles due to language barriers or cultural differences. It's safer to choose shops with English menus or "Welcome" signs at the entrance.
If you want to know more about Golden Gai, please check out the Golden Guide article.
Website: http://goldengai.jp/
Kabukicho
Kabukicho is known as Japan's largest entertainment district. It's characterized by a modern and glamorous atmosphere completely different from Omoide Yokocho or Golden Gai.
Large neon signs and LED advertisements illuminating the streets, 24-hour shops, and people coming and going endlessly. These all come together to create a unique, vibrant atmosphere.
Kabukicho is home to various types of restaurants and entertainment facilities. From high-end restaurants to casual izakayas, there are dining establishments of all genres. There are also many karaoke places, pachinko parlors, and movie theaters, allowing you to enjoy all night long.
However, there are areas in Kabukicho that require caution. Especially at night, it's common to be approached by touts. I myself have experienced aggressive solicitation several times. Therefore, it's important to firmly refuse. Also, you need to be very careful with your valuables.
If you want to know more about this area, please check out the Kabukicho Guide article.
Omoide Yokocho is a precious place in modern Tokyo that strongly retains the appearance of old Japan. The experience here will surely become a special memory of your Tokyo trip.
However, it's quite a local place, so if you're unsure, please consider using the tours introduced in this article.
After reading this article, please actually visit Omoide Yokocho!
